Drink Cru Beaujolais

As a wine professional, I have to say that the pre-covid days of Beaujolais Nouveau parties in the US were lost on me. But you have to hand it to George Duboeuf, the marketing genius who took a local celebration of the harvest and turned in in to an international event to sell more wine. You know the Duboeuf bottles, the ones with the flowers on the labels that you'll see stacked in grocery stores from November to January? Made with Gamay juice that's has literally been bottled only six to eight weeks after the grapes were picked, the result is basically under developed alcoholic grape juice that will get worse as it sits in the bottle. And unfortunately many Americans still believe that this represents Beaujolais as a region as a whole.

Cru Beaujolais is the good stuff, the age worthy stuff that can go head to head with the great wines of Burgundy at half the cost. Each with their own AOC, cru Beaujolais comes from 10 named villages within Beaujolais and represent the region's very best vineyards. Wines from Morgon, Brouilly, Julienas and more have their own very distinct personalities and offer high quality, structured, age worthy alternatives to Beaujolais Nouveau and are becoming increasingly popular with Pinot Noir drinkers looking for something more friendly and affordable.

Moving from north to south on the map, the crus begin just below the Bourgogne’s Mâconnais region. The following descriptions of each cru is from the Inter Beaujolais website who has some amazing terroir maps and information.

Want to find out which Cru best suits your palate? Next Wednesday Dave Sobiesk will pour a "Not Nouveau" tasting of some of our Cru Beaujolais and Beaujolais Village to introduce you to our favorite AOC's and producers -we tasted 20+ wines to come up with this ultra tasty lineup! Go here for tickets and read on for more info on the 10 Crus. Wines with a “*” will be featured in the tasting.

Saint Amour: The Saint-Amour AOC is located in the commune by the same name, in Saône-et-Loire. Its mixed soil includes granite, schist and clay, producing wines with two different characters. One is light and easy-to-drink, with aromas of iris or violet and even raspberry. The other is powerful and complex, offering aromas of kirsch and spice. Soils: PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (48%), GRANITE (22%), BLUE STONE (9,9%), LIMESTONE, MARL, CLAY; Elevation: 280 meters

Our selection: Domaine des Billards, Saint-Amour (2019) THE estate to try is hands down Domaine des Billards and we are lucky enough to have them available to us. A beautiful example of the lighter elegant style from the region. 91 JS

Juliénas: Stretching across four communes, mainly in the Rhône with a small part in the Saône-et-Loire, the Juliénas cru benefits from excellent sunshine exposure. The average altitude varies, starting at 230 metres and reaching 430 metres in the far northwest. The AOC definitely has one of the most diverse soils in the Beaujolais: schist, diorite and sandstone as well as clay. Soils:BLUE STONE (42%), GRANITE (3%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (29%), SCHIST (14%); Elevation: 330 meters.

Our selection, *Domaine Smith-Chapel Juliénas Vayolette (2020) Relatively new to the world of Beaujolais, David Chapel and Michele Smith produced their 1st vintage in 2016. Their Julienas is 40-65 year old organically farmed vines with semi carbonic, native fermentation, aged 11 months and bottled unfiltered. We are very excited about this stunning new addition to the field! NYR

Chenas: Chénas is the smallest appellation in Beaujolais in terms of surface area. It is named after the ancient oak forests formerly covering the commune, cleared by the Gallo-Romans then by the local monks by order of Philip V of France, known as ‘The Tall’. The vines stretch across rolling hills and valleys. These gamay grapes express notes of small black fruit, peony and spices highlighted by mellow tannins. Soils: GRANITE (47%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (49%); Elevation: 260 meters.

Our selection, Domaine des Fines Graves Chenas (2018) -Domaine des Fines Graves is the fiefdom of Jacky Janodet, his lovely wife and their son. The Janodets produce several wines from numerous plots, and the overall style of the house is fuller bodied, structured and very age worthy. This made from 40 year old vines and only 9000 bottles made. NYR

Moulin-A-Vent: The windmill (moulin) – standing at 278 meters, surrounded by vineyards – is classified as a historical monument. It embodies the prestige and pride of the small appellation, straddles two communes, and benefits from a homogeneous terroir. After a few years, Moulin-à-Vent wines develop aromas of iris, wilted roses, spice and ripe fruit with notes of undergrowth and truffles, providing tannic, structured wines. When younger, they are floral and fruity, with violet and cherry aromas. Soils: GRANITE, LIMESTONE, MARL, SANDSTONE; Elevation: 260 meters

Our selection: *Domaine Diochon Moulin-A-Vent Vieilles Vignes (2020) - Domaine Diochon is an outlie in the world of Beujolais, producing one bottling year in and year out, old-vine Moulin-à-Vent. Their one and only wine is produced from 50-85 year old vines with very little sulfur and is bottled unfined and unfiltered with the telltale MAV tannic structure. 94 WA

Fleurie: The Fleurie appellation has the geographical particularity of sloping down from a range of peaks including the Fût d’Avenas, Col de Durbize, Col des Labourons and Pic Raymont. The hill, called La Madone, towers over the appellation, offering a breath-taking panorama of all the vineyards. Fleurie wines are, without a doubt, the most feminine of the Beaujolais crus. Soils: PINK GRANITE (90%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (8%) Elevation: 340 meters

Our selections: *Domaine Chignard Les Moriers Fleurie (2019) One of the most iconic producers of the region. The Fleurie vines are anywhere from 35 years of age to over a century, with the Moriers vineyard being one of the most renowned in Fleurie, faces Moulin-à-Vent and is based on pink granite soil, making the wines structured but very elegant. 93 WA, 93 V

Chiroubles: The Chiroubles cru is located north of the Rhône, in the heart of the village by the same name. The AOC is nestled on hillsides arranged in granite cirques whose series of amphitheatre-like valleys provide the vines with optimal exposure. These are the highest vines in Beaujolais (often on slopes with inclines over 30%), a guarantee of cool temperatures in the face of the current climate change. The Chiroubles growers are often considered “heroic”, given how physically demanding and meticulous the work is on the rugged hillsides. Soils: 100% PINK GRANITE; Elevation: 410 meters

Our selection: Damien Coquelet 2019 Chiroubles (2019) Damien Coquelet’s stepfather, Georges Descombes, is a legendary pioneer of the modernist, natural winemaking school of Beaujolais. Coquelet set up shop by himself, under his own name, in 2007, at the age of 20. This is old school, traditional Beaujolais - organic viticulture, hand harvesting, native yeasts, zero intervention in the cellar and little if any sulfur at bottling. 92 V

Morgon: The Morgon cru, overlooked by Mont du Py, is the largest of the Beaujolais crus. The famous Côte du Py is made up of decomposed shale. The appellation’s wines offer aromas of stone fruit like sour cherries, with notes of violet and kirsch. Their delicate tannins promise optimal ageing. Soil: GRANITE (52%), BLUE STONE (37%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (11%) Elevation: 310 meters

Our selection: *Domaine Mee Godard Morgon Cote du Py (2019) Mee Godard started her own domaine in Morgon in February 2013, and she's rapidly become one of the region's star producers. She has 5 hectares of vines in Morgon spread over three sites: Côte du Py, Grand Cras and Corcellete. Certified Organic and practices biodynamically - she loves to use a variety of aging vessels from concrete to neutral barrels to give her wines a plush, velvety mouth feel. 94 V, 94 WA

Régnié The village of Régnié-Durette is especially noteworthy for its church with two spires (built in 1867 based on the design by Pierre Bossan, the architect who later built the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière). The vines are planted on slopes at an average of 350 metres in altitude, facing southeast. This appellation’s wines are light, easy-to-drink and rich in mineral elements, very aromatic, maturing quickly. Soils: GRANITE (64%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (34%); Elevation: 350 meters

Our selection: Domaine des Braves Régnié (2020) The elevation, soil and south facing slope makes for Beaujolais with penetrating, lip- and tongue-staining color and gorgeous concentration. NYR

Brouilly: Brouilly, the southernmost and most extensive of the Beaujolais crus, stretches out at the foot of Mont Brouilly and its chapel (Notre-Dame aux Raisins). The fruit-driven (plum, small red fruit) wines, sometimes with mineral notes, express the gamay bouquet perfectly. Brouilly wines can be enjoyed in their youth. Soils: PINK GRANITE (46%), BLUE STONE (4%), LIMESTONE, MARL, CLAY, SHALE; Elevation: 290 meters

Our selections: Jean-Claude Lapalu Brouilly Vielles Vignes (2018) Jean-Claude Lapalu is one of the most respected and revered growers in Beaujolais and a leader in the Natural Wine movement in France. 94 WA, 94 V

*2019 Château Thivin Reverdon Brouilly (2019) This historic estate continues to rank among the reference points for classical, age-worthy cru Beaujolais and text book Brouilly. Reverdon is a lieu-dit on the pink granite lower slopes of the Côte de Brouilly 45 year old vines, organic farming. 93 WA

Côte de Brouilly: At the summit of Mont Brouilly – the veritable emblem of the appellation – the Côte de Brouilly vines cover a small area across four communes: Saint-Lager, Odenas, Quincié-en-Beaujolais and Cercié. The wines are generous with delicate tannins and aromas evocative of pepper, small macerated black fruit and mineral notes. Soils: BLUE STONE (40%), GRANITE (24%), PIEDMONT DEPOSITS (12%); Elevation: 300 meters

Our selection: Nicole Chanrion Côte-de-Brouilly (2019) 1.5L Ever since taking over the family domaine in 1988, Nicole Chanrion works all 6.5 hectares by herself, from pruning the vineyards and driving the tractors to winemaking and bottling, all without bravado or fanfare. 93 JS
2019 Château Thivin Côte de Brouilly (2019) 1.5LThis historic estate continues to rank among the reference points for classical, age-worthy cru Beaujolais and text book Cote de Brouilly. 50+ year old vines, organic farming- 93+ WA

Other Tasty Beaujolais Treats:
Terres Dorées Beaujolais L'Ancien Vieilles Vignes 2019

*Domaine Dupeuble Beaujolais Blanc (2019)

Mary Taylor Beaujolais Village (2019)

Jean Foillard Beaujolais Village (2019)

As usual, our selection is constantly rotating - come check it out!