Current Cheese Selection

We are continuing to stock cooler with some fresh new cheeses from our friends at St. James and more great imported stuff from our distributor! All are the perfect size for a picnic on the bayou with prices ranging from $5 to $12 each depending price per pound. Add some to your next pick up or delivery 😋

Meats: Creminelli Salami (Picante, Tartufo, Wild Boar); Trois Cochon Saucisson Sec; Fabrique Delice Duck Mousse Pate w/Port; Trois Cochon Pate Rustique; temporarily out - Palacios Chorizo;

Soft Cheeses: Cypress Grove Assorted Goat Discs (Purple Haze, Sgt. Pepper); Capriole Flora (goat); Brillat Savarin Triple Cream Brie, Langherino (cow & sheep); Petit Camembert

Semi Soft Cheese: Raclette di Savoie, Pont Leveque, Red Clay Hickory Smoked Cheddar Pimiento Cheese, Rogue Creamery Oregon Blue

Hard Cheeses: Cabot Aged Clothbound Cheddar; Hooks Cheddar; Manchego Organic Curado; Emmentaler; Prima Donna Gouda; Comte; Moliterno di Tartufo

Accoutrements: Sicilian Marinated Olives, Castelvetrano Olives, Divina Dolmas, Bella Maria Valencia Almonds; Divina Fig and Orange Spread; Hellenic Farms Fig Salami (meatless! figs, pistachio, cinnamon)

Crackers: 34 Degress Crisps (plain & onion); 2s Company Gluten Free; Egalite Toasts; Kii Naturals Goji Berry and Pistachio; Fire Hook Baked Organic Crackers (Multigrain Flax, Sea Salt, Garlic & Thyme)

What to drink with what you eat, Louisiana Style!

Blog Post by Michelle Gueydan

For me, pairing drink with food is as ubiquitous as waking up and going to sleep each day. Our daily dining experiences can be greatly enhanced when food and drink complement, not quarrel, with one another. The biggest reward can also be realized if a third flavor emerges from a complementary pairing. This is when you taste something that is more than the sum of each of its parts: in this case, the food and the wine. I will never forget the first time I experienced a pairing that took me to another level. Although I was not in New Orleans when it happened, I had Turtle Soup with a glass of Sherry and an incredible new taste emerged that made me forget that (at the time) I didn’t particularly like the taste of Sherry on its own.

I think we can all agree that we have Louisiana to thank for the culinary combination of sherry with (and IN) turtle soup. Nonetheless, this artfully tasteful combination is not the only association that sets our food culture apart from many others. We cook in the same way that we live: with soul and passion. For Louisianans, food is not just a means to an end, or a staple by which to survive. Food is a means by which we communicate and create, and then, share and influence. We continue to influence the world with our culinary traditions and even our more modern thought-provoking influences. To pay homage to our unique culinary revolutions and recognitions, we have chosen four types of Louisiana dishes/categories to pair with four intriguing wines aimed at bringing your pairing experience to that next level. Since our climatic conditions make it difficult to be a wine producing region, we don’t necessarily abide by the mantra: Drink the Foods of a Region with the Wines of that Region. However, for me this is not a handicap; it is an opportunity to show that our food+drink experiences can be as diverse and synergistic as the melting pot that defines us. And even more importantly, we are memorable! Our food and drink experiences can be just as memorable, especially as we aim to achieve the greatest reward: a new element that is greater than the sum of all of its parts!

This Wednesday, I am pairing up with Swirl for a virtual wine education & tasting session that will highlight 4 of our favorite dishes/themes and pair them with 4 carefully selected wines by Swirl. For your convenience, here are suggestions on how support some of our local restaurateurs with take-out/delivery options for each dish/theme. While we recognize that we are not gathering in the same space with the same dishes in front of us, the recommendations can still result in a pairing experience that will be thought-provoking, educational and rewarding experience. Please continue to this link for wine and food details, and to sign up: [my facebook link].

The WINES (available for pick-up/delivery from Swirl):

1.      2018 Domaine Bonnet-Huteau “Les Bonnets Blanc,” Muscadet de Sevre et Maine, France. $16.50
Note – Made from the Melon de Bourgogne grape, this light-bodied, dry white wine has lime, apple & pear notes with bracing acidity and a salty finish.  Muscadets are often classic pairs with oysters.

2.      2019 Anne Amie Vineyards Rosé of Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley, Oregon. $18.50
Note- The painted garden label and it’s contents nearly scream Spring! Think cherry candy spices, laced with with hints of citrus and apricot. Fruit forward, but dry and balanced.

3.     2018 Malabaila di Canale, Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy. $20.50
Note- A soft, supple and fruitier style of the Nebbiolo grape with bright cherry notes and hints of violent.  A versatile red wine for a variety of palates and flavor profiles.

4.      2018 Konpira Maru “Icarus” Cabernet/Merlot, Australia, $37.50
Note- Made from some of Aussie’s best undiscovered vineyards, this food-friendly wine is aching for experimentation in the kitchen!  100% natural fermentation and no additions. This is a unique splurge that is well worth the plunge!

The FOOD

1.      OYSTERS: Pairing - Domaine Bonnet-Huteau “Les Bonnets Blanc

a.      Felix’s Lakeview
Started take-out & delivery this past weekend. If raw is unavailable, try Oysters Bienville or Rockefeller. But, please call to confirm, as no “Covid” menu posted. 
b.      Station 6 Lakeview
This was going to be my go-to suggestion, but as of this weekend, not serving oysters…may be worth double checking by mid-week. If no, pls check em out once can dine on premise again.  Their oyster happy hour is the best around- on the half shell and served with glass of Champagne (real champagne)!
c.       Drago’s Metairie/Mandeville

2.      CRAWFISH: Pairing - 2019 Anne Amie Vineyards Rosé of Pinot Noir

a.      Captain Sid’s Bucktown
Take-out only.
b.      Clesi’s Mid-City
Take-out or delivery.
c.       Boil Seafood House, uptown
A unique Viet Cajun style.  Take-out or delivery (call for delivery zones)

3.      JAMBALAYA: Pairing - 2018 Malabaila di Canale Nebbiolo

a.      Clesi’s Mid-CityTake-out or delivery.
Take-out or delivery, but call to confirm daily menu options
b.      SEAFOOD COUVILLION @Toups Meatery, Mid-City:
We love the support that Toup’s is giving the hospitality industry with their daily free meal program.  While they don’t have jambalaya, Grandmother Toups’ Seafood Couvillion may be an excellent sub for this pairing.
c.       VEGAN JAMABALAYA @Sweet Soulfood on Broad:
Full disclosure: I haven’t tried them yet, but I am intrigued!  *If you are vegan, you could possibly try their gumbo or mushrooms & gravy for wine #4.

4.      BRISKET, RIBS, BEEF/PORK STEW, “DEBRIS”:  AKA a hearty dish w/ rich sauce.  If you have leftover red beans and rice (with or without smoked sausage) that could work too! Pairing - 2018 Konpira Maru “Icarus”

a.      Marji’s Grill on Broad
Menu changes DAILY, but recent highlights fit perfectly: beef cheeks, pork shoulder steak, smoked meat preparations, etc.
b.      Brown Butter, Mid-City:
This week’s menu not up yet, but options often include pork belly, short ribs, smoked meat.
c.       Toups Meatery, Mid-City:
Call to check daily options.  Good options: braised beef ribs or brisket sammy

Our Weekly 3 Pack, Drink Orange!

Tapping in to your sense of adventure, we are putting together a weekly 3 pack of cool wines. Our first offering is this diverse, interesting and affordable selection of orange wines. One of the difficult things in experimenting with Orange wines is that they can get a little pricey so we've put together a 3 pack that will give you a broad range styles for $50 and change. If you are interested, call us at 504 304 0635 and add it to your pick up or delivery order!

Gonc Grape Abduction, Slovenia – made by the Pete Gonc in Slovenia, a 4th generation winemaker producing natural wine from native varieties. This lightly amber colored wine is a great blend of Pinot Blanc, Pinot Grigio and Riesling – it spends a quick 5 months in bottle before release, making it a fresh, drink now kind of wine in a litre bottle at a very affordable price for this category.

Tevza Winery Kartli Goruli Mtsvane Qvevri Crazy Amber - Goga Tevzadze runs his traditional micro-winery at his home in Mtskheta, Georgia. Tevza produces natural, unique wines from the distinctive grape varieties of the Kartli region. The Goruli Mtsvane grapes are handpicked and directly crushed into qvevri, the traditional earthenware amphore that Georgia is so known for. The wines ages for 3 months underground and explode with life in your wine glass. Full tilt amber wine, rich and tannic.

Rogue Vine Grand Itata Jamón Jamón – natural wine project in Itata Chile by Leonardo Erazo Lynch. He works the old bush vines organically with horses to produce fresh wines with character, personality and a sense of place This is 100% Moscatel, the lightest of the 3 with a pale tangerine color laced with orange blossoms and citrus peel. It’s bone dry on the palate finishing spice and fine tannins – interesting, refreshing and easy to drink. Rogue Vines is up to some seriously delicious things down in Chile's Itata Valley.

A Splash of Orange

As the category of natural, minimal intervention wine continues to grow, winemakers are increasingly turning to an age-old winemaking practice in their white wine production. Before we had all of this technology at our fingertips, winemaking in the ancient world was a simple practice - organically grown grapes, stems, and seeds were put into a terracotta vessel and allowed to naturally ferment with their own wild yeasts. The method, with evidence dating back 8,000 years ago in Georgia, was basic; no barrels, no steel tanks, no temperature controlled vats or gentle bladder presses, just grapes and clay vessels. And of course, the same process was used for both red and white wines resulting in whites that weren't actually white but had color from the skin contact usually with an orangish hue.

Documentation from the 1800's shows that northern Italy and neighboring Slovenia have historically used a similar method to produce their white wines to increase their flavor and durability. The name "Ramato" or copper Italian, refers to the color of skin-fermented Pinot Grigio which was the only production method used until the 1950's. But the modernization of winemaking brought stainless steel tanks and cultured yeast which eventually lead to the fresh, watery clear Pinot Grigio that we know today.

The present-day production of orange wine or skin-fermented whites was revived a few decades ago by Friuli producers, Stanislao Radikon and Josko Gravner who felt the white wines of the region had the potential to be much more expressive than the confines of conventional winemaking allowed. They both turned to the old methods for inspiration - no chemicals or fertilizers in the vineyards, maceration on the skins, natural yeasts and no added sulfur. With Radikon, all phases of the vinifications are in Slavonian oak barrels as his grandfather did in the 1930's while Gravner turned to the clay amphora still used by Georgian winemakers. The result was a dramatically different wine and initially, their conversion to these old methods was very unpopular taking years for consumers and critics to embrace the style.

Since then, orange wines have gone from obscure to edging on mainstream, with winemakers from France to New York experimenting with the style. As you can probably guess, this method of winemaking can be a bit tricky and the results can vary greatly. The color can be golden, bright amber, peach, or rust, even brownish; the tastes range from fresh-cut apricots, spice, and herbs to tangy, smoky, nutty, and savory, with more intense aromas and the texture and structure of reds without the heaviness.

If you are intrigued by the concept but don’t know what to buy or already a fan and looking for something new, call us at 504 304 0635 and we are happy to recommend something that you can add to your next walk in, pick up or delivery order!

Pure Finesse & Elegance in a Bottle, Francois Le Saint Sancerre Silex 2018

I have to admit, I don’t drink a lot of Sauvignon Blanc. If I do, they usually come from the Loire Valley, Northern Italy or Slovenia…and even then, those wines are not what I reach for on a regular basis. So when one captures me as this one did, I feel compelled to buy it, write about it and most certainly drink it.

This wine is made by the Fouassier family, one of the oldest wine growing families and largest land holders in Sancerre. The 10th generation of the family is currently as the helm, with cousins Benoit and Paul continuing the work of their fathers in converting to organic and biodynamic practices. François Le Saint is a second label used by the Fouassier family for wines specifically made from their certified organic, biodynamically-farmed vineyards which feature the diverse soils of Sancerre. After more than 100 years farming these plots, the family knows how to grow and vinify their grapes in order to express the unique mineral composition of each plot. Extremely complex soils vary from vineyard to vineyard, some with a high concentration of limestone and deep layers of calcareous clay or Kimmeridgian marl, and some flinty with stones and layers of compacted chalk that contribute to the famous minerality found in the white wines from the region.

Made with native yeasts, extended lees contact, aged in tank for one year, and bottled with minimal sulfur - this lengthy process produces wines that showcase the unique qualities of Sancerre and the dedication of the Fouassier family. Organic viticulture over limestone soils, no use of oak and limited yields results in a pure, mineral expression of Sauvignon Blanc.

The Francois Le Saint Sancerre Silex 2018 made from 25 year old vines grown in the famed Silex (flint) soils of the region. The aromatics are compelling – more fruit on the nose than most but delicate and pure with pear, green apple, citrus zest enveloped by the telltale wet stone. Great texture and structure in the mouth, it finishes with taut, bright acidity and classic Sancerre minerality. This quality for under $30 is a steal…limited quantity available.

Shop Local! Support your Faubourg St. John Businesses

Shopping local is crucial to the survival of our small business right now.  And while we want all of our New Orleans based restaurants, bars, services and retailers to survive this unprecedented situation, we are giving a special shout out to all of our amazing business within the FSJ boundaries who are holding on and trying to fight the good fight.  Please understand the circumstances are changing constantly so it might be a good idea to call and verify the below information.

1000 Figs - (504) 301-0848, pick up and delivery, Wednesday-Saturday pre-order online, check out their website for more details

Blue Oak - (504) 822-2583, pick up, Tuesday-Sunday, 11AM - 9PM, check out their menu

Cafe Degas - (504) 945-5635, pick up and delivery, Wednesday-Sunday, 1-7PM, check out their menu

Canseco’s Market - (504) 322-2594, delivery option, store hours 7AM-10PM every day

Liuzza’s by the Track - (504) 218-7888, pick up and delivery, Monday - Saturday 11AM-7:30PM

Lola’s - (504) 488-6946, pick up and delivery, daily 4PM-9PM (you can get their Sangria to go!)

Nonna Mia - (504) 948-1717, pick up and delivery, 11AM-9PM, putting together family meals, check out their menu

Santa Fe - (504) 948-0077, pick up and delivery, Tuesday-Sunday, 11AM-9PM (get a free homemade dessert with every order of $25+)

Swirl - (504) 304-0635, pick up and delivery, Monday-Saturday, 11AM-7PM ($5 delivery fee goes directly to employees)

Terranova’s Supermarket - (504) 482-4131 , store hours 8AM-6:30PM

Toup’s Meatery - (504) 252-4999, pick up and delivery, everyday, 11AM-9PM, check on their menu on their facebook page (family meal for the needy and service industry everyday at 3PM til they run out!)

The Building Blocks, Champagne Education Series with Michael Knisley

One of the defining characteristics of champagne is the blend - a blend of white and red grapes, a blend of multiple different vintages.  Certainly that is a crucial component of what makes champagne such a special wine.  It is also part of the art of production - taking the many different components and blending them together to give a balanced and beautiful final product.  As we have explored, it is not only about the grapes, but also how the vigneron chooses to grow, vinify, and age them before they get blended together into the bottle of champagne.  

In fact, as I type this, I'm sharing a bottle of Egly-Ouriet "Vignes de Vrigny", a 100% Pinot Meunier from a single village.  As my friend and I discussed it, it showed beautifully and clearly the effects of grape, place, and winemaker.  And it is undeniable that this wine could not have been made exactly this way otherwise.  Sounds like another term we use a lot, doesn't it?  Yep, terroir.  But, the more we explore each grape, and each village, and each house, it allows us to identify and appreciate each of those different factors and how they play together in the final product.  

To this end, we are going to re-visit a format we did before, basing a series of 3 tastings around different grapes.  But, beyond that, I will work to find an array of wines each night that will allow us to explore and understand these different components, or building blocks, that go into the more common blends.  Rather than just Chardonnay from different villages, we will put together comparisons between steel vs oak, young vs aged, vintage vs multivintage.  And then we'll do the same with Pinot Noir.  The final class will be as much Pinot Meunier as I can find (it's sadly still the least common to find bottled alone) and then some wines that showcase the "other" 4 grapes that are allowed in the appellation.  When we're done, you'll hopefully have a deeper appreciation for the role that each grape plays in a classic blend, as well as the other factors such as place, elevage, and age that make their own imprint on the character of the grapes.

You can sign up for the first class here, CES The Building Blocks on March 15.

Michael Knisley

Michael Knisley's Turkey Day Champagne Picks

What's better than Thanksgiving?  Thanksgiving with Champagne!
Champagne is one of the most versatile wines around when it comes to food pairings, which is great when you have such an array of flavors and textures on your holiday table.  You can find one that will work from start to finish (even as early as the Turkey Trot if you like to really get the party started early).  Or, choose a few and pair them with different parts of the meal.

 Looking for something bright to wake up the taste buds and stimulate the appetite?  Brut nature champagne, with no extra dosage (the sugar/wine mix that gives each champagne its final balance and dryness level), is bone dry but still full of great flavor.  They are excellent on their own or with some fresh seafood, simply prepared.  Starting the meal with some oysters, shrimp, or crab?  This is your wine.  The Louis Roederer "Starck 2009" Brut Nature is bottled sunshine.  This wine is 1/3 chardonnay, and 2/3 Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, from a very warm, ripe vintage.  All the grapes are from Cumières, one of the best sites in the Vallee de la Marne.  The floral aromas lead into a palate that is bursting with lemon and peach flavors, with a nutty, mineral, brisk finish.  It's so delicious on its own and will also pair with lighter dishes to start the meal.

Another great choice to either start out your celebration on its own or to balance out the richer dishes is an all-chardonnay Blanc de Blancs.  The Guiborat "Prisme 11" Blanc de Blancs Extra Brut is all from 3 Grand Cru villages in the Cote des Blancs, known for the intensely chalky minerality this subregion imparts to the champagnes.  The zest and zip is preserved by fermentation in stainless steel, followed by 4 years on lees (longer than required for even a vintage champagne) to add additional complexity.  You'll find tons of citrus and pear here, tied together with a substantial acidity that helps refresh the palate during what can become a heavy meal.  

For an all-around delicious wine that will work well with the turkey and whatever side dishes you plan to have with it, I'm recommending the Waris-Larmandier "Racines de Trois" Brut.  This family estate is new to the New Orleans market just in time for the holidays.  They are producing excellent biodynamic champagnes.  This one is a blend of the 3 classic champagne grapes - chardonnay, pinot noir, and pinot meunier - vinified in a mix of stainless steel and large oak foudres.  Its generous dosage, at the upper limits rounds things out nicely and gives a well-balanced wine that will go with just about anything on the table.

If you want to get a champagne with a ton of complexity and character to specifically pair with the turkey, ham, duck, or even your turducken, the Bérêche et Fils "Campania Remensis" Extra Brut Rosé is it.  Driven by old-vine Pinot Noir, vinified in oak, and aged 3 years on the lees under cork in the family cellars of the Bérêche brothers, it has body, texture, and depth of flavor that will complement the roasted meats and vegetables that make up the centerpiece of the Thanksgiving table.  I can personally vouch that this is drinking beautifully right now!

And of course, all of the above wines are available at Swirl :-) Happy Thanksgiving!

Montalcino, Rick Steves and How This Whole Wine Thing Began...

Fog in the Tuscan Hills - First Italy Trip October 2004

I can remember the moment pretty clearly.  Before there was Swirl, before hurricane Katrina and the failure of our levee system upended our lives, I was having a lazy weekend in the summer of 2003, flipping through channels and found a Rick Steves travel segment about Montalcino and its famous wine, Brunello.   You know how travel shows have that way of pulling you in and making you want to go there?  Well, that was the day that the travel bug bit deep, infecting me with an all consuming wanderlust and it has never let go...

We were wine enthusiasts at the time, focusing more on the easily understandable California wines, dabbling a bit in Bordeaux and the Rhone, but besides a Chianti now and then, Italy just seemed too vast and complicated.   In watching that show on Montalcino, I became totally enthralled by the history of the place, the beautiful countryside and winemaking traditions,  deciding right then and there that I wanted to visit that town and drink their wines.  Of course, I didn’t know then that it was a life changing moment and the beginning of my ongoing obsession with Italy, wine and travel. 

Because of that show, I began planning our first of many trips to Italy in 2004.  It was also one of those decade birthday years so what better time to reach out to friends who might want to join us on this adventure.  Limiting that first trip to Tuscany, I wanted to experience all that the region had to offer from the Renaissance jewel of Florence to the medieval stronghold of Sienna,  the enchanting villages of Montepulciano, Greve, Montalcino, San Gimignano and even to its coast and the beachside town of  Viareggio – I wanted to see it all. I obsessed over the details, diving headfirst into learning the regional wines and culinary traditions, planning and plotting routes on paper maps, researching villa after villa and most importantly, what wineries to visit.

The rooftops of Florence - First Italy Trip, October 2004

Just before we left I met this crazy Italian guy who just happened to work for Castello Banfi, the winery featured in the Rick Steves travel show.  It was too late for him to arrange anything special for our visit but it was the start of a relationship with my now good friend and Italian "brother", Antonio Molesini.  Little did we know our lives would take many different twists and turns over the next few years and we would be arranging trips together some 7 years later.

So off we went, 10 ladies on holiday (as we were called by a Brit we met in the tiny village of Ambra).  Making our way through the region in our rental cars, frequently getting lost and taking wrong turns down one way streets, drinking an embarrassing amount of wine (even for New Orleans standards!) indulging in all of the local culinary specialties, visiting the cultural and historical sites - it was an exhilarating, festive and gluttonous romp across Tuscany.

The day we went to Montalcino was magical for me.  I scheduled a visit to Castello Banfi, explored the fortress on the edge of town while taking in the views of the valley below, ate the best ravioli of my life, spent time with the friendly locals in the piazza during the passagiata, savoring each moment and experience - I somehow knew then that I would be back many times.  I didn’t know how or why that would happen, but Italy had gotten under my skin and seeped into my soul.  

Castello Banfi, Montalcino - First Italy Trip, 2004

Here we are 13 years later, and it's still difficult for me to explain my connection with Italy and its people because I don't really understand it myself. All I can say is that there's a sense of comfort that comes over me as soon as I step foot on Italian soil. Their passionate nature helps me focus on what is important, their slower way of living life on what is real. As my wise friend and other Italian brother Vincenzo Fusco once said, "life, there is only one”.

Kerry, Me & Antonio, June 2014 Tuscany Trip

It’s now 20 years since that first trip and 17 years with the man who helped fuel my obsession with Italy year after year.  Antonio Molesini and I have visited the famous hill town 3 times together since then and I hope there will be many more.

8 Reasons to Bring Your Jazz Fest Guests to Swirl!

Jazz Fest Central Round 2!
The energy in the neighborhood last week was incredible as we kicked off Jazz Fest 2017 with mostly good weather, amazing music and lots of backyard parties that continued well after the gates had closed.  While we got a little cleansing rain yesterday, it looks like there's beautiful weather on the way. And with that extra day at the Fest on Thursday this week we want to be sure to give you and your out of town guests lots of reasons to stop in to shop for party beverages, check out all of the local art or just have a drink at the bar with friends and neighbors. 

1. Check out one of New Orleans Own Famed Food Trucks -  Arepas, tacos, and the intiguingly named "burri-tacos" are stuffed full of meat, beans, cheese, and general deliciousness can be had from La Cocinita's bright red food truck that parks in front of Swirl every Monday.  Bring your dinner inside Swirl to eat and get your first glass of wine at half price! No reservations required.

2. Wine by Local Producers - People are always looking for "local" wines and we feel these great labels produced by some of our favorite New Orleanians should fit the bill and deliver a whole lot of quality.  We've got James Moises' Oregon Pinot Noir in stock from Oregon a few wines from our friends at Vending Machine Wines in California. Open a bottle in house, take a few home, or we can ship!

3. Refreshing Beverages to Kick off Your Day at the Fest - Join us on Thursday, Friday, Saturday AND Sunday this week from 10:00-1:00 ish for our $4 mimosas, $6 aperol spritz or Erin's special bloody mary! - a Jazz Fest Swirl tradition!
 
4. Great Local Art on the Walls - Check out the really cool New Orleans themed work with local art from Shaun Aleman, Lizano’s Glass Haus and Julia Stefanski! Their original works start at just $20!!

5.  Quality Selection of Wine and Beer - The perfect gift to thank you for hospitality?  Bring them over to pick up a few bottles for the house or sit outside and watch the festers go by while enjoying a glass of wine and a cheese plate.  How about a nice cold rosé to share on the bayou in the evening? The perfect end to a wonderful day at the fest! 

6.  Artisan Cheese, Local Chocolates - A nice selection of imported cheeses, olives, cured meats and local chocolates from Bittersweet confections await!  Cheeses are cut into perfect cheese plate sized chunks and lots of great accouterments available to round out your presentation.

7. Try a Wine Flite at the Bar - What better way to kick off the second weekend of Jazz Fest 2017 than a flight of french rosé? And better yet, what if we poured that beautiful flight out of magnums? Nothing says party quite like a giant refreshing bottle of pink wine! The tasting is from 6-8pm but knowing that some of you can't wait 'til then, we'll be pouring the flight all day! If you do want to come between 6-8pm you may want to make a reservation to secure your spot as we are limiting the flight to 25 people. 

8.  More than 25 Wines by the Glass - Have a drink at the bar or sit outside with a cheese plate and watch the festers go by! And our selection of quality rose' is infamous!  The perfect New Orleans 

Falling Head over Heels for Jean Marc Burgaud Beaujolais...

For those of you who still think Beaujolais is only that fruity, young, usually not very good wine that is released in November each year, these wines will forever change your mind...for those of you who know and appreciate what good Cru Beaujolais is, you can't help but be impressed. Cru Beaujolais is made in the the top 10 villages, each village putting their stamp of terroir on their wines; from the structured Moulin a Vent, dense Morgons, to the elegant Fleuries - these wines can give more quality for the money than Burgundy.

So what makes these 2 wines so special? They are made by Jean Marc Burgaud, a conscientious, talented winemaker who makes extraordinary wine from his 19 hectares of land with the majority being in Morgon's famed Cotes du Py (13ha).  Jean Marc and his wife Christine, both from winemaking families,  have been purchasing very select, prime parcels since starting their winery in 1989 and have grown to 19 hectares with the other 6 in Regnie and Beaujolais Village.

Old vines in the Cote de Py

The youngest of the vines are 50+ years old and the vineyards have not seen chemicals or non-organic inputs for 10+ years and all work is done by hand and horse.  Jean Marc does high density planting at 10,000 vines per hectare which he feels is extremely important in producing quality gamay.

In the cellar, vinification is by traditional semi-carbonic maceration with varied length – seven days for the Beaujolais Villages and up to 15 days for some of his Morgon parcels in the Côte du Py.  For the majority of his wines he uses cement vats to preserve the Gamay's fruit and florality, but uses 1/4 old barrique for the Côte du Py.

These wines are hard to beat for quality, craftsmanship, age-worthiness and affordability - 4 descriptors you don't always see together in the wine world these days.  When we tasted them in Paris with Thomas Calder last fall they were a "must have" for James, me and Michael and I am thrilled to have them in the store and in my home...

Jean Marc Burgaud

We have 2 of his reds in stock and his Beaujolais Blanc will be on the shelves next week.  All are under $25 and are truly a joy to drink.
-2015 Morgon Les Charmes: "Les Charmes" is an 85-year old vineyard west of Côte du Py in the Cru village of Morgon. Structure and complexity give this wine the ability to age nicely over the next decade. Les Charmes is fresh and alive and right away you notice the ripe, savory flavors that make you want to take another sip. 

Vinous Media, 93 points: 2015 Burgaud Les Charmes - Bright violet. Highly expressive, pure aromas of fresh dark berries, candied flowers and minerals. Sweet, seamless and expansive on the palate, offering concentrated blackberry, cherry and spicecake flavors that show surprising vivacity for their depth. Effortlessly plays power off finesse and finishes very long and sappy, revealing a lingering violet flourish and noteworthy clarity.

- 2015 Morgon Côte du Py: The  Côte du Py is known for producing the deepest, richest and most complex wines of all the 10 Crus in Beaujolais. These are 100 year old Gamay vines on the Côte du Py hill rising above the village of Morgon. Comprised of schist soils this acclaimed slope is known for producing Beaujolais Cru every bit as complex as top Burgundy. This wine is rich, but with that depth comes amazing balance and finesse. The texture is silky and soft showing plushy flavors of black cherry, plum and spice.

Vinous Media, 93 points: 2015 Burgaud Morgon Côte du Py  -Deep ruby. Heady, mineral-tinged blue fruit, spicecake and floral pastille aromas, along with hints of cola and licorice. Sappy, penetrating and sharply focused black raspberry and boysenberry flavors smoothly blend power and delicacy and pick up an allspice nuance as the wine opens up. Closes impressively long and sweet, displaying subtle tannins and echoes of exotic spices and smoky minerals. 

What is Grower Champagnes and Why Should I Try It?

In general, many of you who drink Champagne are probably most familiar with the big house negociant names like Veuve Cliquot, Moet Chandon, Taittinger and Perrier Jouet, to name a few.  Those houses produce perfectly delicious wines with fruit that they mainly purchase from small growers throughout the region.  Historically, these Champagne houses have a defined style and flavor profile that they want to maintain year after, bottle after bottle, so that each time you pick up a Veuve Cliquot it tastes the same. Every time - no matter what happened in the vineyard the year it was bottled.  And there is comfort in that knowledge that wines like Taittinger La Francais will taste as you know it, no matter when, where and how you purchase it.  

Think of grower Champagnes as you do from wine anywhere else in the world - they tend to express the place and the base vintage from where they came.  For instance, you expect a 2013 bottle of Napa Valley Howell Mountain Cabernet to carry the signature of the soils and quality of the vintage; just as you know that purchasing a 2013 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir may wear the signature of the unpredictable rains at harvest.  Grower Champagnes are made by those farmers who sell much of their grapes to the big houses. They keep a portion for themselves to make wine under their own label.  To qualify as a grower or recoltant (vs. a negotiant) they must use a minimum of 95% of fruit from their own vineyards.  Because their sparkling wines are crafted with grapes from specific parcels of land and blended in small lots, they tend to taste very distinct and different every year.

It is a personal choice but sometimes just a habitual one.  If a bottle of Mumm Grand Cru Cramant is sitting beside a bottle of Voirin-Jumel Grand Cru Cramant, chances are you'll go for the more familiar name - and miss out on a delicious grower Champagne.  The trend in the wine world today is moving toward growers and less big house bottlings with the notion that small is better, big is bad.  But as Michael Knisley always says, grower doesn't always mean good!  Eric Asimov did a great New York Times article addressing this issue last month and is an insightful look and this trend and consequences, Big Can be Beautiful.  

At Swirl, we recognize the value of both and carry a mix of big house negociants and small growers.  My personal preference tends toward grower Champagnes, but I thoroughly enjoy a well made, quality wine from any producer.

Winemaker Patrick Reuter's Active Imagination

Patrick Reuter's "Imagination Series" label

Each time I travel to Oregon there is always a long list of wineries to visit.  So much beautiful wine in such a compact area! But there is one guy (besides James Moises!) that I taste with every time I'm there - Patrick Reuter at Dominio IV. With so much talent in the Willamette Valley, what is it about Patrick and his wines that draw me in?  When you spend time with him in the winery, weaving your way through plastic bins full of fermenting grape juice, listening to him talk about his approach to making wine, you can't help but sense the philosophical entanglement of his work and life as he seems to do both with the same intensity creativity, and passion. His wines embody his spirit - bold, adventurous, uncompromising, unforgettable and sometimes a little crazy... 

Tank tasting Patrick's "Inverse", Viognier with a touch of Syrah

Located in an old granary on the edge of McMinnville, Dominio IV was started in by Patrick and his wife Leigh Bartholomew, who was also the vineyard manager at Archery Summit for 13 years.  They bought land in Mosier Oregon (Columbia Gorge) with Leigh's parents in 2002, planting Viognier, Syrah and Tempranillo in their now certified biodynamic Three Sleeps Vineyard.  But knowing all of the Oregon wine jobs were in the Willamette Valley, they've based their operations in McMinnville where they source biodynamic and organic fruit from Moe and Flora Momtazi in McMinnville, the Stermer Vineyards, owned by the Lemelson family in Dundee and Bella Vida in Dundee.   

Dominio IV is housed in an old granary on the edge of McMinnville

If you've ever picked up any bottle of wine made by Patrick, you figure out pretty quickly that this is no ordinary guy. The front of his beautifully stylized labels are accompanied by fantastical names like "Loves Lies Bleeding", "A Penny for a Lily" or "Rain on Leaves", and turning to the back label, you find Patrick's poetry. His "Sketches of Spain" Tempranillo grown in his biodynamic vineyard reads, “The summer winds blow like Miles’ across the vineyard’s face. In the beat of the long days, you can find the sun buried within the vineyard’s skin. It grows fresh and green. Rolling in the breeze, it grows Tempranillo. Beneath the soil the roots drum up jazz notes staccato and velvet while whispering memories of Spain.”  This is a guy who is obviously into what he does and how he does it.

Tank tasting with Patrick during our "Artisan Oregon" 2013 trip

His "Imagination Series" of wines and labels developed from Patrick's unique method of taking tasting notes. A system of wine observation and notation that he calls "shape tasting" is an artistic expression of what is happening on a sensory level as he tastes the wine.  Using watercolors and pencils, Reuter had a fully fledged system for sketching and painting his impressions of wines. Arrows signify acidity, while dots and rocky shapes represent tannins. Colorful circles are juicy fruit notes; half-moons are fruit that drops off at the finish; puddles are overripe fruit. Individual works of art, these labels truly express Patrick's interpretation of the wine's aromatics, flavors and textures.

We are excited to have Patrick join us on Wednesday, November 16 at 6pm for a tasting of his Imagination Series wines.  Seating is limited and reservations are highly recommended! The lineup will include the following and maybe a lagniappe Pinot!  Register here: Imagination Series

Dominio IV, Columbia Gorge Spellbound Imagination 7 Three Sleeps Vineyard 2013
Dominio IV, Chardonnay Imagination Series 9  2014
Dominio IV, Imagination Series 11 Inverse 2015
Dominio IV, Columbia Gorge Imagination No. 1 2012

Something to Crow About

Of course I first heard the story of the black rooster, the internationally known symbol of Chianti, from Antonio Molesini.  A native of Tuscany, Antonio's version is one I will never forget and those of you who know him understand the comical nature of his story telling.  The Black Rooster symbol is a huge source of pride for locals and it's origin is the stuff legends are made from.

It came down to a horse race.  In the Middle Ages, the constant feuding between Siena and Florence made the area between them (now Chianti Classico) a continual battle zone.  Finally coming to an agreement that the fighting over the land must end they decided to hold a horse race with a rider coming from each Florence and Siena and the spot where the two met would define the borders of each of the republics.

Well being the Middle Ages, there was no way of communicating over that 35 mile distance when the race would begin.   So they decided that the riders would set out at dawn and the signal for the race to begin would be the crowing of a rooster announcing the new day. The Senesi chose a white rooster while the Florentines a black one.  Of course, it wouldn't be a legend without a little trickery and those crafty Florentines decided to keep their bird hungry in a small covered cage. On the long-awaited day of the race, the famished rooster began to crow loudly as soon as it was removed from its pen, although it was still some time before dawn. The galloping rider from Florence got a big head start, covering  a lot of ground while the rider from Siena was still awaiting his rooster to crow at first light.  Needless to say, the Florentine rider met the horseman from Siena just 7 miles outside of the city near the castle of Fonterutoli and as a result, the majority of the territory came into the hands of the Republic of Florence.

After that legendary horse race, that starving Black Rooster became the symbol of the League of Chianti within the Republic of Florence and it has been immortalized on every bottle of Chianti Classico since!

Monday Morning Wine Briefing: August 14, 2016

I asked the staff this morning for a quick answer on their favorite rosé in store right now. Answers are listed in the order they were received :)  Buy any 3 and get a 10% discount!

Casey:  Kir-Yianni Akakies Sparkling Rosé 2013 - "The 2013 Rose Akakies is 100% Xinomavro and dry. This has tons of great fruit this year, but in its youth it is the power and acidity that come to the foreground. xinomavro can be a great base for a pink, a grape that can add acidity and complexity. Kir-Yianni typically does it quite well. This is firing on all burners, right down to the crisp finish with tension, grip and some complexity of flavor. In its youth, it's a beauty and a very nice bargain, too. It may not be everyone's "typical" pink, though, if you're thinking "sweet and soft." It's time to give this fine pink some props. It has certainly shown its stuff." RP 90 points

Kimi: Domaines Bunan, Bandol Rosé 2015 - The Bunan family have quietly become the single largest proprietors in the increasingly well-regarded appellation of Bandol. The wines – across the board – show a respect for tradition but also an openness to change. Their vineyards are now certified organic and they have begun the process of bio-dynamic conversion.  Clean, luscious, with classic Côtes e Provence aromas of soft summer fruits and violets. The palate is elegantly fresh and tangy, with touches of mineral and citrus.

Erin: Bodegas Larchago Rioja Rosé 2015 - We had so much fun with owner/winemaker Javier Chavarri and his wife Maria when we did a tasting with them earlier in the year.  At that time his rosé was not yet released, but he was very excited about the 2015 vintage.  All you have to do is taste it to know why! Great aromatics of strawberry and raspberry, rich on the palate but with a clean, minerally finish.  

Clare:  Château Puech Haut, Coteaux du Languedoc Prestige Rosé 2015 - "The entry-level Rosé is the 2015 Languedoc Cuvee Prestige Rose, and it continues to be a sensational value. Made from 60% Grenache and 40% Cinsault, it’s light pink color is followed by perfumed notes of strawberries, orange blossom and spring flowers. Juicy, clean and refreshing, yet with texture, buy a case of this." RP 90-92 points

Kerry: Domaine François Millet Sancerre Pinot Noir Rosé 2015 - From a small family estate in the Loire.  100% Pinot Noir - Pure and clean (as a Sancerre should be!) with red berries and citrus. Precise and elegant; fresh and thirst-quenching. Delightful on a hot summer day!

Beth: Domaine de Fondrèche Ventoux Rosé 2015 - A store favorite for 3 years running!  "Very pale orange-pink. Powerful, mineral-tinged aromas of blood orange and red currant are complemented by a suave floral element. Concentrated red berry and orange zest flavors are sharpened by a white pepper note that adds back-end spiciness. Quite lithe for its depth of flavor; finishes stony, floral and long, carrying a subtle echo of bitter cherry." VM 90 points

90 + Rated Wines, You be the Judge!

Tank Tasting Domaine Tempier, June 2016

Love ‘em or hate ‘em, wine scores sell wine. They are used as marketing tools when the ratings are high and can kill a wine if they’re low. By their very nature, wine ratings are subjective. Really, what is the difference between a Wine Spectator score of 90 and a Wine Advocate score of 89? Or better yet, a Wine Spectator score of 82 and a Wine Advocate score of 90 on the same wine? A function of advertising dollars, perhaps? So how did this business, and a lucrative business it is, get started?

Ratings were not really part of the wine world before 1978. If they used any scoring system at all, critics in both the United States and abroad tended to use a simple 5-point system. Enter Robert M. Parker Jr. a lawyer turned self-employed wine critic who introduced the 100-point system to the wine world in 1978 when he started a wine buying guide called The Wine Advocate, published every two months.

Easy to comprehend, consumers embraced the 100-point rating system immediately. Under his system, a 96 to 100 is an extraordinary wine, 90 to 95 is excellent, and 80 to 89 is above average to very good. To avoid being influenced by the name or reputation of a winery, Mr. Parker tasted batches of wine together, slipping the bottles into individual paper bags and then mixing them up and rating each one.

His system grew in popularity and “Parker Points” started being used as marketing tools by wine retailers. As others began to see the value of such a simple yet effective system, they adopted similar scales. Enter Wine Spectator who in the mid-1980’s introduced their own 100-point scale to market their publication, while others followed over the next 10 years as both Wine & Spirits and Wine Enthusiast adopted the 100-point systems in the mid-1990’s.

One of the most respected reviewers, Stephen Tanzer, began his International Wine Cellar publication in 1985.  While Tanzer used Parker's 100 point system, he had a reputation for choosing finesse over power; the opposite of Parker's palate which tended toward full bodied, warm climate wines. His reviews were precise and to the point, without all of Parker's flamboyant style, and over the years he developed a reputation for being stingy with big scores.  Tanzer has recently joined forces with Antonio Galloni, previously a wine reviewer for Robert Parker, and in my opinion, they have created one of the most dynamic platforms for in-depth information on the wine regions of the world, Vinous Media.  Vinous began in 2013 and offers its users an interactive experience using video, maps, photos, interviews, stories and of course, professional wine reviews.

All of these publications and websites can have a major influence on retail sales. On the positive side, ratings can give novice wine tasters an objective way to judge wines. On the negative side, ratings have become influential enough to cause wineries to rise and fall on the strength of their published ratings. A very high rating from a respected rating authority can result in a rapid sellout of a particular wine while leaving another high quality wine without a rating, collecting dust on the shelves.

What you need to keep in mind about all of this is that rating wine is absolutely subjective. The points (and even the tasting notes) written of a particular wine are the opinions of the reviewer and reflect the rater’s own tastes, biases, and preferences. In the end, it’s not my opinion or Mr. Parker’s or the Wine Spectator that matters, it’s how you feel about a wine and the enjoyment it brings you that really counts.

We are doing a 2-part tasting series of 90+ rated wines from various “respected” wine critics for our Wednesday flights over the next 2 weeks. This week we'll focus on Europe; a French rosé (92 points), a Greek white (94 points), a Brunello (92 points) and a Priorat (95 points) . Next week we'll feature 4 domestic 90+ wines.  We’d like you to be the judge and let us know what you think of the wines on the 100-point scale. The flight is $15 and no reservations are required, 6-8pm.  If you can't make it during that time, we will be happy to pour you the flight at any time on Wednesday. 

Your Monday Morning Wine Briefing

Much better than a Monday morning news briefing!

Here's what you need to know:
I asked the staff this morning for a quick answer on their favorite wines in the store right now. 

Kimi - Domaine de la Noblaie Chinon Blanc 2014: Take one of the Loire Valley's leading white varieties Chenin Blanc and plant it in the region's most exalted red appellation, Chinon (most commonly 100% Cabernet Franc) and you have a wine that is quite out of the ordinary; white Chinon. This variety accounts for no more than 2% of the appellation's production - about 16000 cases each year, divided between dozens of different domaines. These wines can be hard to find even when visiting Chinon, as good growers sell out quickly. $24.50 NYR

Clare - Castello di Pomino 2014 Chardonnay Pomino Bianco: "The 2014 Chardonnay Pomino Bianco is pretty, aromatic and nicely lifted in the glass, with plenty of bright citrus and white floral notes. This delicate, aromatic Chardonnay-based blend is easily one of the better 2014 Tuscan whites readers will find. Drink it over the next 2-3 years. Pomino Bianco is mostly Chardonnay, with a dollop of Pinot Bianco and a handful of other varieties." $16.99, VM 90 points

Casey - Roux Pere et Fils Gevrey Chambertin Vielles Vignes 2011:
"A juicy style, with cherry, raspberry, tea, and spice flavors and a mineral element lurking underneath. This is solid, turning more compact on the finish. Best from 2015 through 2016." $35.99, WS 91pts 

Erin - Allegrini Palazzo della Torre 2010: "A ripe and juicy red with dried berry and green coffee bean character. Full body, fresh acidity and a juicy finish. A blend of corvina and rondinella." $20.99, RP 90 pts

Beth - Calabretta Nerello Mascalese Vigne Vecchie 2006 - Fantastic representation of an Etna red with a little age! The vines for this wine come from a seven-hectare vineyard on the slopes of Mount Etna. Average age of the vineyards is between 60-80 years with some plants over 100 years old, some ungrafted--on original root stock. This vintage is a blend of nerello mascalese and nerello cappuccio. The winery practices organic farming in black volcanic, stony soil at an elevation of 750 meters. super! $29.99

Kerry - Eric Rodez NV Cuvée des Crayeres Ambonnay Grand Cru Brut: "Light yellow-gold. Aromas of Poire William, white flowers and honey are lifted by a zesty mineral topnote. Fleshy and dry on the palate, offering very good lift and clarity to its bitter quince and peach pit flavors. Closes on an emphatic, sharply focused mineral note, with firm grip and spicy persistence." $59.99, VM 91 pts

Gone Fishing! 5 Staff Picks, Seafood Pairing Suggestions & Recipes

Fresh caught Dorade in Cassis - Provence Trip, June 2016

As much as I love our time in Tuscany each year, I have to say the meat-centric cuisine can be a bit much after a week of non-stop indulgences.  But who can turn down Bistecca Fiorentina, Ragu di Cinghiale, Prosciutto di Toscano or Salsiccia di Maiale when it is oh so fresh and placed in front of you by enthusiastic Italians shouting "mangia! mangia!"?  Needless to say, I was ready to lighten up my diet when we returned so I thought I'd check in with the staff and ask what they are eating and drinking lately.

Kimi's pick and a staff favorite!

Kimi has a secret source for an abundance of freshly caught fish through a guy known only to us as the "food fairy".  One of her favorite preparations is fish crudo.  Crudo, “raw” in Italian, is the way Italians eat their fresh, uncooked fish: thinly sliced and drizzled with olive oil, an acid (vinegar or citrus) and accented with seasonings.  The key is to good crudo is simple - use only high-quality, ultrafresh seafood and the best olive oil and produce available.  Her top pairing? One of our favorite Greek wines, the Sigalas Assyrtiko Santorini 2015.  And here's a quick, simple classic crudo recipe:  Tuna Crudo with Lemon

When Erin does seafood she's does it right!

Erin admits that her rural Midwestern upbringing did not include much fish and it’s not something she cooks often.  However good char-grilled oysters can tempt even this meat and potatoes girl, especially when paired with a nice white Burgundy. And if she’s going to do it, Erin is going to splurge with her pairing – Chateau de Meursault 2013 Meursault.  And if you are going to make them, you can't go wrong with the recipe from Dragos! Drago's Charbroiled Oysters Recipe

Quintessential Mediterranean white at an amazing price!

Casey has a soft spot for sardines and loves doing a traditional pasta recipe with lemon, capers and breadcrumbs.  Good canned sardines will work but if you can get your hands on some fresh ones and put them on the grill, you’ll  push your food and wine experience up several notches!  He loves a good Mediterranean coastal white and the Argiolas Costamolino Vermentino 2015 is a top pick.  Chef/author Mark Bittman's recipe is southern Italian staple:  Pasta & Sardines

Cassis Blanc is hard to come by here in New Orleans, and we are very excited to have this in stock!

Kerry and I eat a lot of fish during the summer and each have our own go-to preparations.  My favorite of Kerry’s is a  lightly fried local drum with a squeeze of fresh lemon and a little parsley – about as simple as it gets.  I just picked up a few filets at the Farmer’s Market on Saturday and in anticipation of our Sunday dinner, there's a bottle of the 2013 Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Blanc chilling in the fridge.  I’m hoping it will transport us back to that lovely lunch a few weeks ago on the coast in Provence… here's a link to her recipe, plus an almond butter sauce if you want something a bit more complex.  But if you do, I'd change the pairing to the La Scolca Gavi!  - 2 Pairings with Gulf Coast Drum

Clare gave us the most thoughtful answer when I posed the question and since many of you may not know her I thought I’d publish her complete response and share her excitement about food and wine pairing.

“Last week I had a friend over for dinner. Since we had so much to catch up on and it’s been so hot we wanted to keep it casual yet delicious and use what was in season. Shrimp are beautiful this time of year and pair perfectly with a crisp clean Chablis like the Willam Fevre Champs Royaux 2014. We made fresh boiled shrimp salad on a brioche bun with arugula and a side of cold root vegetable salad with fresh dill. 

The buttery shrimp on the sweet brioche bread and the slight spice of the arugula were a great combination with Chablis which brought out the richness and cut the fat without overpowering the delicate flavors of the sandwich. It also held its own and didn't get lost in the bold flavors of the root salad. The best part of this pairing for me was that the wine tasted different yet still paired well when tasted separately with the sandwich and the salad, even on its own for that matter. It's such a fun adventure to explore wine and taste how they change with different foods.

Everything about this meal is made for the hot slow days of summer- not much time standing over the stove, everything is chilled, can be made ahead of time and can be served leisurely. I highly recommend. The meal is a bit of a splurge, but everything holds well and leftovers are great, so buy two bottles of Chablis to enjoy again the next night!”

So there you have it!  I hope you'll experiment for some new recipes and new wines to help get you through this hot, humid New Orleans summer!

Two Great Pairings with Fresh Gulf Coast Drum

When thinking about food and wine pairing, the goal is for the subtle nuances of the wine to compliment the predominant flavors in the food. So as I was deciding what to pair the with La Scolca Gavi, I went with one of the distinct characteristics of the wine, which is an almond undertone, and decided to go for a simple Gulf Coast Drum with Almond and Butter Sauce. The richness of the butter and almonds with the light, tangy lemon is the perfect pairing with the medium, sometimes almost oily texture of Gavi. Add some delicious Gulf Coast fish and you have a quick easy recipe that can be pulled together in about 15 minutes.

If you want to keep things even more simple, just saute the fish and serve with a squeeze of lemon and some fresh parsley.  But we'll need to change the wine to something a bitter lighter but with enough body to hold up to fried food.  The Domaine du Bagnol Cassis Blanc is a favorite pairing of mine with freshly caught fried fish.

SERVES 6
The fish:

* 2 lbs of fresh Gulf Coast Drum
* 1/2 cup seasoned flour (1/2 t. mixed salt and pepper)
* olive oil or neutral frying oil

Dredge fish fillets in seasoned flour.

Pour olive oil into a large skillet until you have about 1/4 inch of oil in the pan. Heat on a medium flame; add fillets.

Saute quickly on both sides until lightly browned; do not over cook. Place fish on a heated platter.

The Sauce:
Makes 3/4 cup
Ingredients

* 1/2 cup butter
* 2/3 cup (2 ounces) sliced almonds
* 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
* 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Preparation

Melt butter in a large skillet over medium-high heat. Add almonds; sauté 2 to 4 minutes until golden brown. (Do not overcook or butter will burn.) Stir in lemon juice and parsley. Serve immediately.

Serve with a nicely chilled glass of La Scolca Gavi!

The Heart and Soul of Bandol, Domaine Tempier

The impressive bottle lineup for our tasting.

Today's tour and tasting at Domaine Tempier in Bandol gets put on our short list of truly special visits. Greeted by family member Véronique Peyraud Rougeot, we spent hours barrel and tank tasting the young wines, comparing all of the 2013 single vineyard reds, trying their Bandol Blanc and current vintage rosé, walking around the beautiful property while hearing stories of her famous mother Lulu, father Lucien, and the rest of her close knit family.

The original family home built in the 1800's

View at Domaine Tempier of the cinsault vineyards, looking towards the sea.

Lulu inherited Domaine Tempier from her father Alphonse Tempier in 1940. Originally the wine produced there was sold in bulk and the majority of the land was planted with peach orchards.  But when Lulu and husband Lucien took over the property  they wanted to focus on quality - Bandol had just received its AOC status in 1941 and there was much excitement about the future of the region. Soon after, in 1942, Lucien bottled his first wine, the Domaine Tempier AOC Rosé Bandol.

Over time their holdings grew with the purchase of remarkable vineyard sites around the region, most of which can be seen from the property; first with the purchase of la Migoua, followed by La Tourtine and Cabassaou.  From La Tourtine Lucien created his first red Bandol in 1951.  Their total acreage is now 38 hectares spread over several parcels facing the sea on steep, sun-drenched slopes and they produce roughly 10,000 total cases of wine per year.

An old pine tree on the property providing shade for many a meal and celebration.

Lucien and Lulu toasting under that beautiful pine tree.

The estate is known worldwide for producing some of the highest quality Bandol wines and the family is known for their hard work, generosity and high standards. Lucien helped to shape the production standards of the region and pushed hard for a higher inclusion of Mouvedre.  In 1945, he was elected chairman of the Bandol winegrowers’ syndicate, and in 1947 he became a member of the INAO (Institut National des Appellations d’Origine), the French AOC regulatory body. Original documents stated only 10% of the blend needed to be in the mix but knowing the quality potential of the grape, he fought for more.  Lucien's persistence raised the percentages to 20, then 30 and now today's Bandol Rouge must contain at least 50% Mourvedre.

The old vine Mourvedre , the signature grape of the region

While Lucien was gaining fame as a producer, Lula was known for her love of Provencal cuisine.  Any press you read about Domaine Tempier contains as much about Lulu's cooking as it does the famous wines.  I first read about her in a recent Saveur article where her food is described as "Simply put, Lulu's food embodies the best of French home cooking, marked by Provençal simplicity and elegant restraint."  We were happy to see the cookbooks for sale at the Domaine and Veronique asked if we wanted her mother, now 99 years old, to sign our books. Well of course!  What a special treat!  I've listed one of her recipes at the end of this post.

When we had finished our tasting Veronique asked me if we would like to taste an older vintage rosé. My eager "yes please!" sent her off to a back room and after some time she emerged with a dusty bottle of 1999 Rosé that was simply incredible. Vibrant acidity, the telltale salinity with the dusty, honeyed, rose petal aromatics - it was a fantastic example of the aging potential of a well made Bandol Rosé.

Tank tasting of 2014 Bandol rouge with Veronique.

Tank tasting of 2014 Bandol Rouge "Tourtin", one of their 3 single vineyard reds.

The barrel & foudre cellar.

As we emerged from the cool cellar into the warm windy Provence day, we all felt like fast friends of Veronique and her family. The connection they have to the land of southern France, their passion for what they do and the warmhearted way in which they embrace and welcome outsiders makes for a touching and very special visit. Thank you Veronique, you've made us fans for life! And oh, yes we loved the wine as well! :)

The biggest treat of the afternoon!

Thank you Veronique!

Lulu's Tapenade Recipe

Most every restaurant we visit here in Provence brings you a small complimentary bowl of their house olive tapenade, spread on toasts it is lovely with the local rosé.  Here is Lulu's version that the book states is "one of the trademark Tempier appestisers".

Tapenade
from Lulu's Provencal Table

Ingredients

1 garlic clove, peeled and pounded to a paste with a pinch of coarse salt
Small pinch of cayenne
1⁄2 lb large Greek-style black olives, pitted
3 T. capers
1 tsp. chopped young fresh savory leaves or pinch or crumble dry savory leaves
4 salt anchovy fillets or 2 whole anchovies, well rinsed and chopped
4 T. extra-virgin olive oil

In a food processor, reduce the olives, anchovies, capers, garlic, cayenne and savory to a coarse purée.  Add the olive oil and process only until the mixture is homogeneous-a couple of rapid whirls. 

Bon Appetite!