Drink Like a Pro, Mondays at Serendipity

The newest restaurant in the city, Serendipity @American Can, announces a new weekly wine seminar program for Mondays that we call, "Drink Like a Pro Mondays." Chef Chris DeBarr, who won a Top 100 Wine Restaurant in the Nation honor this year from Wine Enthusiast Magazine for his previous wine selections at Green Goddess, is leading wine drinkers to new, unusual wine finds all over the globe at his new restaurant, Serendipity.

"What we want to do with 'Drink Like a Pro Mondays' is to give wine lovers a backstage pass at how we wine professionals evaluate wine-- in little 2 oz. pours, paired with a bit of food from my kitchen," says Chef DeBarr, "with at least 6 wines evaluated in each session." The idea to show & tell about wines, about the grapes in their vineyards & the committed farmers & winemakers who care for their treasured old vines, came from the sheer joy of learning that Chef DeBarr experiences buying wines to match his eclectic, soulful cuisine. It will be a rare chance to share experiences with a wide variety of committed pros who love the stories, flavors , and knowledge of what goes into great wine.

Reservations can be made for "Drink Like a Pro Mondays" at Serendipity by calling the restaurant at (504) 407-0818. The seminar starts at 5:45 and lasts about an hour, although DeBarr cautions that he "loves telling stories so as long as we are having fun..." and costs $25, which includes 6 wines and a glass of your favorite choice, with plates of precise matched dishes to illustrate the character & interplay of the wines.

The first 'Drink Like a Pro' features a New Orleans native, Karla Kilgore, who represents a terrific Spanish portfolio of small producers with Bonafide Wine Estates. Now based in Seattle, Karla graduated from Grace King High School and still has family here! We are proud of her accomplishments & her exquisite, daring palate and can't wait to showcase her treasures, particularly from Galicia. From maritime Albariño, to the ancient & steep vineyards of Godello in the Ribeiro Sacra, to the dark yet versatile red grape Mencia, Galicia offers fascinating wines that deliver depths of delicious history in every bottle. "Galicia," says Chef DeBarr enthusiastically, "is now one of my favorite wine destinations for my food! I am very excited to have Karla be our first pro & I hope we welcome her with a great event at Serendipity!" Karla also represents the better known Spanish portfolio of Classical Wines, where the Cava originates, but we adore finding such small, artisanal producers of outstanding quality in her Bonafide line.

'Drink Like a Pro Monday" with Karla Kilgore of Bonafide Wine Estates is this Monday, Oct. 22 from 5:45-6:45 at Serendipity @ American Can. We will also feature a lovely Cava & a very rare example of the nearly vanished Prieto Picudo grape, which makes an utterly memorable Rosé that sings! There will also be a whisper of Sherry from a small producer that we will all be lucky to have tasted once the seminar is finished! It's all quite a bargain for $25, which includes tax & tips and a few tasty treats from the kitchen at Serendipity.

On Monday Oct. 29, we are very excited to showcase Greek wines from one excellent producer, Ktima Pavlidas, from the Drama province in the northern reaches of Greece. High altitude and natural winemaking lead to a unique blending of Old World grapes, like Sauvingon Blanc & Syrah, with indigenous Greek varietals such as Assyritiko & St. George. We will kickoff the weeklong celebration of Pavlidis wines (Ktima means the equivalent of bodega or estate) with our 'Drink Like a Pro Monday' featuring Chris Badini of Athenee Wines, a terrific importer of Greek wines & spirits. Then we will showcase a "Wine & Dine Me" Tasting and Wine Pairing Menu all week...featuring these great Pavlidis wines & our Serendipity cuisine. It will be a remarkable exploration of flavors & places as we join Serendipity with Ktima Pavlidis wines.

In subsequent weeks, we have my good hoops buddy, Erik Christensen of Uncorked Wines, based here in New Orleans, postulating about the essence of 'Winter Whites' that are deft, expressive & capable of standing up to richer, creamier winter fare. Erik's 'Drink Like a Pro Monday' is set for Nov. 5th, and we have some real shockers planned to illustrate our point!

Then on Monday, Nov. 12th, my dear friend & veteran wine pro, Mike Procido from Wines Unlimited, will sit down with me as we make the point about 'Wines That Aren't Turkeys' as we discuss terrific, yet often overlooked, classic holiday wine pairings. The key to a a happy holiday pairing is versatilty in both the weight & taste, with good value. Mike and I are willing to share our trade secrets for happy wine drinking during family celebrations, which include lovely Beaujolais, sexy Valpolicella, and affordable sparkling wines.

In tandem, with 'Wines That Aren't Turkeys' on Mon. Nov 12th, we are looking into developing a Nola Locavore Dinner, "What Would Happen If the Pilgrims Landed in New Orleans?!!" at Serendipity. Chef DeBarr is steeped in the history of food & ingredients, and he promises to bring his creative pirate mentality to the foods that were here in Louisiana before the European conquest of the Americas. More news on that event, with menu & pricing, to soon follow....

We have more wine events headed your way, including the possibility that we might sneak in a visitor on other weeknights, whenever visiting wine pros from the wide world of Dionysian splendor show up in New Orleans. Please stay tuned...and don't hesitate to leave a message for us at (504) 407-0818 on the Serendipity hotline for reservations or questions! This is your chance to learn how a Top 100 chef/sommelier in Chef Chris DeBarr works to find his rare wine discoveries, every week!

We surely hope you will join us for these inaugural 'Drink Like a Pro Mondays' at Serendipity, especially if you feel like joining Karla Kilgore of Bonafide Wine Estates & Classical Spanish Wines this Mon., Oct 22nd to jump start our festive but very informative wine seminars. We promise that we will all have a ball....!

Remember Serendipity is now open 7 nights a week, 5-midnight, located at 3700 Orleans Ave. in the spacious American Can Apts, next to the Mid-City branch of the New Orleans Public Library.

For press contacts: reach Chef DeBarr at his cell (504) 919-7394 or on his email:
chefchrisdebarr@me.com for further details on 'Drink Like a Pro Mondays' @Serendipity.

Chef Chris DeBarr of Serendipity @American Can


- Posted using BlogPress from my iPad

Puglian Wine Dinner A mano!

Taste the wine and food of Puglia hosted by winemaker Pasquale Petrera at A mano! 

 Fatalone

Pasquale is from the region of Puglia where his family has been making wines in the late 1800's.
Five generations in, he is still keeping a rich family tradition alive.

Tuesday, October 30th, 7:00 cash bar, 7:30 dinner. This 5 course unique dinner will include both family style and individual platings for $60, plus tax and tip!  Reservations required at 504-208-9280.

Antipasta

Louisiana oysters with satsuma, parsley, and pepper
2011 Fatalone Greco

Stuffed foccacia with braised chard, pepporoncino, mozzarella
2008 Fatalone Teres

Primi
Farrotto with roasted carrots, and carrot-green pesto
2006 Fatalone Primativo

Secondi
Salsiccia, vitellone and pork sausage, winter squash puree, local peas
2004 Fatalone Primativo Reserva

Dolci
 Coffee and
Cookies

Please inform us of any dietary restrictions. Menu may change based on availability.

Fish en Papillote

Now that the MS Ride is over I feel like we can finally get back to cooking which means I can get back to writing about cooking!  One of the things I've really been enjoying lately is cooking fish and vegetables in parchment paper.  It is a super easy, quick, healthy and flavorful way to prepare food and while certain combinations give better results than others, you really can't go wrong!  Using filets of your favorite fish, fresh herbs and veggies served with pasta, rice or quinoa, the combinations are endless.

Parchment paper  is a type of cellulose paper that is coated with silicone. Its a great nonstick disposable surface for baking and cooking as it can withstand heat and won't burn or smoke in the oven. I like to use it to line baking pans, no need to grease the pan and clean up is easy.  But my favorite use is with fish, folding it into little self cooking packets.  You buy it on a roll (Whole Foods sells an unbleached parchment roll), just like foil or wax paper, or in pre-folded single serving oven bags.  I use both but find the roll easier when you are working with larger pieces of fish. But there really is no substitute for parchment, you can't use wax paper, and while foil gives a similar effect, you have to be careful using anything acidic like citrus or tomatoes.

Experiment with different flavor combinations like Shallots, lemon, herbs and butter with fresh cod or drum with olives, tomatoes and asparagus with a splash of extra virgin olive oil.  The main thing to remember is that your vegetable need to be sliced thin so they will cook properly in the 20 minutes and you need a hot oven, with most recipes calling for 400-475 degrees.

For this recipe I used ginger, shallots and garlic with lemon and carrots, but as I said, play around with your favorite flavor combinations and see what you like best! I served this with a side of classic Aglio, olio and peperoncino pasta using the recipe from one of my favorite bloggers in Rome, but I confess I did add the parmigiano cheese!  We also popped a bottle of 2009 Lioco Chard (we currently have the 2010 in the shop) that had been at the house for awhile.  Unbelievably good and perfect with the food!!!

SALMON IN PARCHMENT (EN PAPILLOTE)
Serves 4

Ingredients
1 Salmon Filet (1 ½-2 lbs.)
Parchment paper
2 lemons (one to slice, one for juice)
1 ½" piece Fresh Ginger minced
3 cloves minced garlic
Extra Virgin Olive Oil
2 tbsp. unsalted butter
1/4 cup white wine
1 shallot minced
Salt and pepper
2 carrots julienned

Preparation
Preheat oven to 400. Leave cookie sheet in oven to also preheat.

• Tear off sheet of parchment paper about twice as long as salmon filet. Place salmon in middle, skin side down. 
• Rub top of salmon with olive oil, sprinkle with salt and pepper. Mince garlic, shallot and ginger and rub on top of salmon. 
• Place thinly sliced lemon on top of salmon. Put carrots on top and around sides of salmon. Add dollops of butter on top of salmon and vegetables. 
• Add a big squeeze of  lemon juice and the white wine on top and seal parchment.
• Fold or staple parchment to seal (I like to fold and then tie the ends if the packs are pretty full), to allow salmon and vegetables to steam.
• Place packet on heated cookie sheet and bake for 20 minutes.

Cool October Events @ Swirl!

                              

 

Ready or not, October is here which means our activity level at the shop gets kicked up a few notches!  We're really happy to be bringing back our wine and cheese pairing classes with Casey Foote from Saint James Cheese (October 11 & 18, see details below) plus we've got our last MS Fundraising Event, a visit from an Italian winemaker and James Moises, fun Wednesday Nite Flites plus our always entertaining Free Fridays! This week alone we have 4 events on the books so scroll down to see what to add to your social calendar!

Monday October 1, 6-10:30pm, Slow Food New Orleans Supper Bowl Jam!
Kerry and I will be heading over to the Slow Food NOLA launch held in true New Orleans style at Rock ‘N’ Bowl. The party gets started at 6 pm with music by Onward Brass Band and food available for purchase from Rock ‘N’ Bowl’s Straight Stick Ranch, La Divina Gelateria, Rue Chow, Frencheeze, My Time Coffee, a Slow Food Demonstrations by Gary Granata, PhD, RD and much more. For more details check out their Facebook Page!

Tuesday October 2, 6-8pm, Have a Drink for MS!!
This is our last week of fundraising for the MS Bike 150 this weekend so tonight we'll donate all of the profits from the bar and help Mike and Matt "prep" their legs for the ride with a leg shaving to raise money for MS!  Our own version of "locks of luv", for $10 you can take a swipe at their legs and all of the money they raise will go to MS! We'll have some amazing wine available at the bar as Kerry, me, Matt and Mike will all pick our favorite wines in the store to put on the list for the evening at special prices.

Wednesday Nite Flites, October 3, 6-8pm
We'll be celebrating our cooler fall evenings tonight with a flite of big reds!  Plus you'll probably need a drink before the presidential debates start at 8pm so come over to taste the Ridge Lytton Springs Proprietary Red(WA 95 pts, $42), B Wise Trios ($30) and the new vintage of Charles Smith's Boom Boom Syrah ($18) Flites are $15 for 3-2 oz. pours of delicious juice, no reservations required!

Friday Free For All, October 5, 6-8pm
Josh Prados will be pouring 4 great wines from Spain tonight accompanied by chef Papier's delicious tapas plates!  The wine tasting is free and plates are $5-$7.  Check out our Facebook page on Friday for the lineup and chef's menu!

Saturday Hollygrove Happy Hour October 6,  4-6
Kimi and Brenda will be pouring for Happy Hour today while Kerry, me, Mike and Matt ride the MS Bike 150! All wines by the glass are half price and you can check out the Hollygrove produce box pick up!  See instructions here on how to order your box!

Wednesday Nite Flites, October 10, 6-8pm
Join Kimi and Mike for flite nite where $15 gets you 3-2 oz. pours of delicious juice, no reservations required! Check out our Facebook page on Wednesday for the lineup and chef's menu!

Special Event! October 11, 6:30pm Italian Wine & Cheese Pairing Class at Swirl
Join Casey Foote of Saint James Cheese and Robin Shay, the Export Manager for Allegrini, for a wonderful tasting of wine and cheese from Italy.  We'll feature 6 gorgeous wines from the Veneto and Toscana presented by Robin including the Poggio Al Tesoro Sondraia (WA 91, $40) and Vermintino, the Allegrini Palazzo della Torre and Valpolicella, and the San Polo Rossi di Montalcino and Rubio Super Tuscan.  The tasting is $35 and reservations/prepayment are required.  Limited to 24 people, call 504.304.0635 to reserve your spot!

Friday Free For All, October 12, 6-8pm
Join Beth Kehn for a tasting of 4 great wines from Italy accompanied by chef Papier's delicious tapas plates!  The wine tasting is free and plates are $5-$7.  Check out our Facebook page on Friday for the lineup and chef's menu!

Hollygrove Happy Hour, Saturday October 13, 4-6pm
Saturday afternoons are heating up at Swirl as we are THE place to pick up your Hollygrove Market box of fresh, local produce.  The infamous $25 Hollygrove box contains roughly 12 items at the peak of their season and can be picked up at Swirl on Saturdays from 4-6pm during our 1/2 priced Happy Hour.  See instructions here on how to order your box!

Wednesday Nite Flites, October 17, 6-8pm
Join Kimi and Mike for flite nite where $15 gets you 3-2 oz. pours of delicious juice, no reservations required! Check out our Facebook page on Wednesday for the lineup and chef's menu!

Special Event! Thursday October 18th, 6:30-8pm, American Wine & Cheese with St. James Cheese & James Moises @ Swirl!
October is American Cheese month and our friends over at Saint James are bringing in lots of great domestic cheeses to celebrate!  So tonight we will pair up Casey Foote and James Moises for a wonderful evening of wine and cheeses from Oregon, Washington and California.  The tasting is $30 and reservations/prepayment are required.  Limited to 24 people, call 504.304.0635 to reserve your spot!

Friday Free For All, October 19, 6-8pm
Please join us for our weekly tasting of 4 free wines!  Lineup is TBA

Hollygrove Happy Hour, Saturday October 20, 4-6pm
Saturday afternoons are heating up at Swirl as we are THE place to pick up your Hollygrove Market box of fresh, local produce.  The infamous $25 Hollygrove box contains roughly 12 items at the peak of their season and can be picked up at Swirl on Saturdays from 4-6pm during our 1/2 priced Happy Hour.  See instructions here on how to order your box!

Wednesday Nite Flites, October 24, 6-8pm
Join Kimi and Mike for flite nite where $15 gets you 3-2 oz. pours of delicious juice, no reservations required!

Friday Free For All, October 26, 6-8pm
Please join us for our weekly tasting of 4 free wines!  Lineup is TBA

Hollygrove Happy Hour, Saturday October 27, 4-6pm
Saturday afternoons are heating up at Swirl as we are THE place to pick up your Hollygrove Market box of fresh, local produce.  The infamous $25 Hollygrove box contains roughly 12 items at the peak of their season and can be picked up at Swirl on Saturdays from 4-6pm during our 1/2 priced Happy Hour.  See instructions here on how to order your box!

Special Event!! Wednesday Nite Flites with Winemaker Pasquale Petrera from Fatalone in Puglia, October 31, 6-8pm
Join us for a great evening of wines from the Puglia region where Primitivo rules!  Winemaker Pasquale Petrera will be presenting 4 wines tonight and we'll have a nice selection of Italian cheese on our "bites" menu!  $15 gets you 3-2 oz. pours of delicious juice, no reservations required!

Help Us in the Fight Against Multiple Sclerosis

Bike MS Louisiana, October 6-7, 2012

We need your help.  And as small business owners, who gets asked for donations on an almost daily basis, we know how hard it can be to give money to every cause you care about.  But this is important as approximately 400,000 Americans have Multiple Sclerosis, and every week about 200 people are diagnosed. World-wide, MS affects about 2.5 million people so chances are you know someone who has been diagnosed with this disease.

We started Team Swirl when one of our friends was diagnosed with Multiple Sclerosis in 2007. We had only 9 people on the team that year, but our enthusiasm towards raising money for this disease has attracted many riders over the years.  By 2011 we were the largest team in the Louisiana tour, 57 members strong, with almost every team member knowing and riding for someone with MS.

There have been significant advances in the treatment of MS in the past few years and we are excited and proud that Team Swirl's  participation in the Louisiana MS 150 has had a direct impact on those developments.  We have raised over $150,000 over the last 4 years and the National Multiple Sclerosis Society uses these funds to not only support research for a cure tomorrow, but also to provide programs which address the needs of people living with MS today. Because we can fight this disease by simply riding a bike, because we have chosen to help thousands of people through a contribution to the MS Bike Tour, we are now getting closer to the hour when no one will have to hear the words, "You have MS."

On October 6, Team Swirl will ride the Louisiana MS 150 for the sixth year in a row with an even deeper purpose as a team member just got diagnosed this summer.  Please consider helping us reach our fund raising goals as any donation, large or small, gets us closer to a world free of MS.  Help us in raising funds and awareness by clicking on our team personal page link below.

To make a tax deductible donation by credit card, please go to:  MS Fundraising Team Swirl
Or you can send a check made out to the National MS Society to:
Swirl Wines
Attn: MS Donation
3143 Ponce de Leon Street
New Orleans, LA 70119

Thank you for your support,

Beth Ribblett & Kerry Tully, Captains, Team Swirl


GO TEAM SWIRL!!!!!!!

The 2008 Oregon Pinot Show: 6 Artisan Producers from a Historical Vintage

Pinot Noir grapes in Oregon.  Photo by James Moises

"In the 2008's, you've got the best vintage Oregon has ever produced, the kind of vintage Oregon winemakers always hoped they could produce." Harvey Steiman, Wine Spectator.

Praise for the 2008 vintage in Oregon has been unanimous, from the New York Times, to Wine Spectator and all of the ratings rags, to the Oregon Wine Awards and more, it is simply superb.  With an uncharacteristically dry September and October, the warm days and cool nights allowed grapes to achieve ripeness without sacrificing the freshness provided by good acidity.  The wines are sought after by collectors and wine enthusiasts around the world making the 2008's harder and harder to find.

2010 harvest in Oregon's Willamette Valley.  Photo by James Moises

But on Wednesday, August 22, we are giving 20 lucky people an opportunity to taste 6 beautiful wines made by small artisan producers from this historic vintage.  The wines will be presented by James Moises, Oregon producer and distributor of limited production wines from Oregon and Washington, and promises to be an unforgettable evening of fine wine and great company!

James in the vineyards, Oregon's Willamette Valley.  Photo courtesy of James Moises

This is a seated event and reservations and prepayment are required.  We have only 8 spots remaining so please contact us at 504.304.0635 to secure your spot. $30


Here's a look at the line up:

2008 J. Daan Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, $24, 450 cases produced
Justin and Megan Van Zanten own this small winery in the Yamhill County town of Carlton. J Daan Wine Cellars, currently housed at the Carlton Winemakers Studio, is the effort of Justin and Megan Van Zanten. Justin's "day job" is as assistant winemaker to Andrew Rich, and he worked previously at major Oregon wineries, including Adelsheim and Chehalem.

The wine is produced from the Croft-Williamson Vineyard and Apolloni Vineyard grapes. This vintage shows off the best of Willamette Valley Pinot-- lush flavors of raspberry and cherry with an elegant finish and silky mouthfeel.

2008 Lumos Wine Company Pinot Noir Temperance Hill, $36, 688 cases produced

The Lumos Wine Company is the product of the efforts of its owner/winemaker, Dai Crisp, who was first introduced to viticulture in 1986 when he helped his parents plant a small, 10-acre vineyard on their farm in Wren, Oregon. In 1990 he became manager of Croft Vineyards where he began to develop his own unique style of grape growing. Then in 1999, Dai took on the 100-acre site at Temperance Hill Vineyard, where he is currently manager. While always interested in the process of wine-making, it wasn’t until Dai had proven to himself and others that he could grow an outstanding wine that he finally made the leap with his own label.

The wine won Double Gold at the Oregon Wine Awards! Lovely, brush-tinged juicy red fruits highlight this classy, fresh, delicious wine. Cristom is one of those producers who can do virtually no wrong. Great wine. Renowned vineyard manager meets famous vineyard. Result: Terrific wine. This stuff is dense, purple-dark, and laden with deep flavors and minerally structure.

2008 Capitello Pinot Noir Willamette Valley, $37.50,

Ray Walsh made King Estate's white wines from its start, developing the US's best known Pinot Gris. He rose quickly at King Estate, highly regarded for his ability to bring out the very best in Oregon grapes. Ray left King Estate last year to make his own Capitello wines.  Ray is a native New Zealander, and worked his way up from "Cellar Rat" to "Cellar Master" at Limeburner Bay, Villa Maria, Waitakere, and Coopers Creek Wineries before moving to the US in 1995. He started as Cellar Master at King Estate in June of 1995, then became winemaker in June of 1999. He was instrumental in the development of the King Estate wine style, and in the high ratings and national respect the winery has today.

The wine is sourced from two vineyard sites in the Willamette Valley; Mary’s Peak Vineyard (located just south of Philomath) and Rainbow’s End Vineyard (located in Monroe). Both vineyards are warm sites that are planted on Bellpine soil, offering richness to the fruit as well as elegance to the finished blend
This Pinot Noir gives off rich aromas of ripe raspberry & pomegranate fruits, while offering elegant oak spice, floral and earth tones. In the mouth, a full display of rich berry fruit and silky tannins shows  up front. The intensely bright raspberry -blueberry fruit along with oak tones fill out the mid-palate, leaves you with a viscous raspberry linger.

2008 De Lancellotti Family Vineyards Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountain, $63

The De Lancellotti Family Vineyard's owners Paul and Kendall de Lancellotti bring to Oregon Pinot Noir a dedication to organic and sustainable grape growing practices that is rare to find and hard to achieve.
A hallmark of Paul and Kendall's winemaking philosophy is their commitment to stewardship of the land. In 2004, they received Biodynamic certification for their 27 acre vineyard. Certification is a complex process involving a commitment to the land and to the cycles of nature, as well as to strictly regulated winemaking practices. The Bergstrom and the deLancellotti Family Vineyards operations were the first two vineyards in the Willamette Valley to be certified Biodynamic. In 2008 they received the highest level of Biodynamic farming, Demeter certification. Using France's great Burgundies as his benchmark, Paul deLancellotti aims to bring subtlety and elegance to his signature Pinot Noirs.

IWC & WS 92 points: Full, bright red. Sexy bouquet of raspberry, cherry-cola and potpourri, with subtle woodsmoke and anise qualities in the background. A juicy, spicy midweight that offers sweet red and dark berry flavors and a zesty mineral spine. Darker fruits come up on the finish, which lingers with impressive juicy persistence. Very attractive right now but has the balance to reward another four to six years of bottle aging, at a minimum.

2008 Dominio IV Pinot Noir Poetry and Roses, $33, 205 cases produced

The husband and wife team Leigh and Patrick are the driving forces behind the winery, supported by Leigh’s parents Liz and Glenn. Leigh is in charge of the Dominio IV vineyards, but her main job is to be vineyard manager and co - general manager for Archery Summit, a producer of ultra-premium Pinot Noirs in Oregon. Leigh studied viticulture at the University of California at Davis and joined the team at Archery Summit in 2000. Patrick also studied at the University of California at Davis and is the winemaker of Dominio IV.


WA 91 points: The medium ruby red 2008 Pinot Noir of Poetry and Roses displays an enticing bouquet of exotic spices, incense, floral notes, and assorted red fruits. This sets the stage for a sweetly fruited, elegant wine that also contains plenty of density, impeccable balance, and a lengthy, seamless finish. Drink this stylish effort through 2019.

2008 Moises Holmes Hill Vineyard, $38, 100 cases produced

Born and raised in New Orleans, Jesuit and LSU graduate, ER doctor and professor, Dr. James Moises is a busy man. Somehow between working in the ER and teaching, he is finding time to follow his other passion, making wine. And not just any wine, we’re talking very small production, serious Pinot Noir from Oregon’s Willamette Valley made with sustainable vineyard practices and minimalist intervention in winemaking.  James’ first vintage release was in 2006, producing an old vine Pinot with fruit from friend Mark Wahle’s original family plot that was planted in 1974, and a Holmes Hill Pinot from the recently planted 40 acre site. Total production was only 150 cases in 2006 and in 2007. With the release of the Vieux Carre, a blend of the old vine Yamhill Carlton and the Holmes Hill fruit, production increased to 300 cases. While Mark Wahle is the winemaker, James is there every step of the way, involved from planting to bottling and he wouldn’t have it any other way. He loves the creative process involved in “taking this cluster of fruit and producing something really special that will bring enjoyment to others.”


The Holmes Hill is my current favorite of James' 2008s and it has been since the night we did the 2008 release tasting of all of his wines.  Immediately drinkable, yet it has all the right stuff for aging.  Great plush, silky mouthfeel, delicious dark cherry fruits with balanced acidity and minerality it is a knock out! 

Positano Bites Deep...

“Positano bites deep. It is a dream place that isn’t quite real when you are there and becomes beckoningly real after you have gone.”  John Steinbeck

 After 13 hours of flying and two tiring train rides, the five of us, later tagged as "le cinque donne", lug our suitcases down the very long train track in Napoli. At the end of the platform a pack of Italian male limo drivers awaits, holding up signs, maneuvering around each other, ready to whisk the "stanieri" to destinations on the beautiful Amalfi Coast.  As I yell out into the crowd asking for Vincenzo, a jovial face makes his way to us.  An infectious smile with an easy, friendly manner, we exchange kisses on the check, feeling immediately comfortable with our new found friend and ready for the adventure that awaits.

Vincenzo Fusco, our friend and driver in Positano

Deliriously dazed, we pile into his van and make two request: bathroom and espresso.   With chaos of Napoli drifting behind us, Mount Vesuvius to our left and the bay of Naples to our right we leave the autostrada and begin ascending the infamous Amalfi Coast highway.  Zig zagging our way up past towering rocky bluffs and plunging gorges, the beautiful combination of the mountains meeting the crystal clear waters, I've never seen more spectacular views.  The pastel colored buildings clinging to the cliff ledges, sparkling in the afternoon sun, beckoning, seducing enchanting, what took me so long to get here and how am I ever going to make myself leave this place?

Our first look at Positano

We stop at the pinnacle of one of the cliffs on the highway and both requests are answered at a little tabacchi perched on the edge of the rock.  A little further down the road Vincenzo makes another stop giving us our first drop dead view of Positano.  Nestled in the rock crevice below, its deep blue water dotted white with boats, the dark pebbly beach lined with colorful umbrellas, we have arrived in paradise.  We descend, twisting, turning narrow streets bring us to the road above the villa.  I say "above" because to reach it you walk down a steep flight of 75 steps to reach the terraced ledge along which sits Le Sirene, our home for the next week.  We embrace Chiara, owner of the villa, as two burly porters lift the luggage of 5 women on their backs and bring it down the ancient stairs all in one trip.

View of Positano from Villa Le Sirene

I'd looked at the pictures of the view from the villa's terrace a thousand times, but as Chiara threw open the 12 foot tall double doors, nothing prepared me for the scene that awaited.  All of my senses are awakened from the exhausting trip as we walk out on the terrace and absorb the scene below us.  Sounds of waves crashing, children laughing, dishes clanking in the restaurants below, conversations drifting up the hillside, this little town is so alive with the most wonderful energy.  Salty ocean smells, clean sea air, and aromas from the seaside cafes, accompanied by visually stunning views, it draws me in as no place ever has, and we've only been here 5 minutes...

We settle in and decide on an early dinner followed by a good nights sleep to prepare for our first full day on the coast.  Out of the villa, puffing our way back up the 75 steps we came down earlier, we go left on the street to "Da Vincenzo"  a beautiful little spot on the main drag.  Of course it's early, way to early for any respectable Italian or anyone accustomed to the late dinner hour in Italy, but they we're totally accommodating to our bleary eyed and barely functioning group of tired women.

As soon as I see the menu, I know how I wanted to start my meal.  Insalata del Mare (salad from the sea), piled with fresh mussels, tiny delicate clams, langostino, octopus and squid in a deliciously simple marinade of local lemon juice and olive oil, is a staple on the Amalfi Coast and something that should not be missed.

And now the decision on the wine.  Familiar and beloved varieties like Falanghina, Greco di Tufo, Fiano di Avellino are on the white wine list, but I want something different, something that would taste like this wonderful  place.  So I choose from an unknown producer (who we actually got to visit on our next trip...), Tenuta San Francesco, and select their inexpensive Costa d'Amalfi Tramonti Bianco, a light, crisp blend of native varieties, biancolella, pepella and falanghina grown in a deep valley further down the coast.  Beautiful floral and herbal aromas with wonderful minerality and acid, it is the absolute perfect match for la cucina del mare in Positano.  It became one of our favorite wines on the trip, our go to bottle to accompany any of the fresh seafood dishes, and something I can't wait to have each time we go back.

Le cinque donne in Positano

Sipping on that wine, tasting the sea in that wonderful dish in that little restaurant with 4 of my favorite people around me, is a moment I will never forget.  A peacefulness comes over me, a feeling that there was no where else in the world that I want to be in this moment in time and it is a feeling that stays with me the entire visit.  There is something about this town, the warmth of its people, its natural beauty, culture, wine and cuisine that keep me coming back year after year.  It's affect on me is profound and hard to capture in words, all I know is that it keeps calling me back and I can't help but listen...

Links to our favorite people and places mentioned in this post.  Please tell them Beth & Kerry from New Orleans sent you...
Taxidriver Positano,  Vincenzo Fusco
Chiara & Giuseppe, Villa Le Sirene
Da Vincenzo Ristorante
Tenuta San Francesco

A Dangerously Simple Summer Cocktail

Sunday evenings = cocktail time.  We've done a long, hard bike ride at the end of a busy week, and a nice refreshing beverage is the perfect recovery tonic!  We love citrus based cocktails and this one with fresh lemon juice, ginger and agave nectar added to some Square One Organic Basil Vodka is the BOMB!
Salute!

1 1/2 oz. Square One Basil Vodka

3/4 oz. fresh lemon juice

3/4 oz. agave nectar or simple syrup

1/2-1 teaspoon of chopped fresh ginger

Combine all in a shaker with ice. Shake well and pour into a rocks glass.  Garnish with a fresh Basil leaf and a little of the chopped ginger.

Perfect Summer Tastings This Week

We are keeping busy this week with four public events plus a private tasting on our books, so if you are looking for a nice, air conditioned smoke-free spot to escape the heat, relax and taste some really great wines, we've got something for you!

flites & bites lets you choose your cheese, meats, accoutrements & wines!

First up will be Flites & Bites, an expansion of our Wednesday Nite Flite event where you can pair a tasting plate to your flite experience.  Our menu is simple; you assemble your own "bites" from a handpicked selection of 6 artisan cheeses, 6 meats and 6 accoutrements. You'll select from some of our favorite products like La Tur cheese from Italy, Mahon from Spain or a French tomme cheese; meats like smoked prosciutto, chorizo and pate; accoutrements like chocolate from Bittersweet confections, Mediterranean olives, or Spanish almonds.  Or if you don't feel like thinking, you can leave the decision making up to us and we'll put one together for you. Then you can choose three wines from our extensive and ever-changing list of wines to put into your flite OR leave everything to us and we'll choose for you based on your "bite" selections!  We'll be featuring a few new wines on our list tonight too including new rosés, reds and whites, so come in for  Flites & Bites! Wednesday August 1, 6-8pm.

Thursday brings The Wines of Markus Molitor, 5 cold, delicious Rieslings from Germany presented by Ariff  Jamal.  Beside being Molitor's CEO and right hand man, Jamal is an independent wine writer for various international wine magazines, a Chemist by profession and oenologist by trade, a professional taster and a member of various wine associations in France.  Needless to say, he brings a lot of expertise, knowledge and an amazing lineup of Rieslings to the table. 

Markus Molitor has been producing wine in the Mosel for over 20 years, since he took over the reigns from his father at age 20.  The largest estate on the Mosel with 94 acres of vineyard land, Markus is one of the middle Mosels most important growers. During the difficult years when the value of German vineyards fell dramatically, Markus had the conviction, knowledge and foresight to take advantage of the low prices and bought up a significant number of small parcels in the finest parts of the best vineyards. With extremely steep slopes, slatey soils and particularly long, slow ripening periods, a gifted producer can weave together that incredibly tense and vibrant mix of minerality, acidity, fruit and ripeness. Markus Molitor excels at this and is without doubt amongst the very best.  This tasting is free and a great opportunity to taste high quality Riesling from an important producer.  Thursday August 2, 6-8pm.

Friday night crowd @ swirl

And then there is our Friday Free For All featuring four free wines and delicious tapas by chef Richard Papier.  Josh Prados will be in the house tonight with four great West Coast wines and of course wine by the glass is always flowing at the bar.  Fun crowd, laid back atmosphere, great wine and food; what more could you want on a Friday night?  Friday, August 3, 6-8pm.

fall selections from the Hollygrove box

Saturday afternoon happy hour at Swirl from 4-6pm has become a popular event where you can drink anything on our extensive by the glass menu for 1/2 price and check out the Hollygrove Market produce pick up.  Swirl has become THE Midcity location to get your fresh box of local produce and if you want more details on how you can be one of the lucky recipients, click here, Hollygrove Box Pick up at Swirl.

So you have lots of excuses to drop by and this week!  We hope to see you soon!

Salute,
Beth & Kerry

Italia & Vini del Sud at Vega Tapas Cafe

Join chef Glen Hogh, Swirl Wines and Antonio Molesini for a wonderful evening of 

Italian food and wines of southern Italy. 

August 16, 6:30pm 

Vega Tapas Cafe 

2051 Metairie Road 

Reservations 504.836.2007 

$80 per person, tax and tip included 

Tour of the Mediterranean 

ITALIA & VINI del SUD 

antipasti 

Sparkling Apertivi 

bruschetta di pomodori

creole tomatoes, fresh basil, & olive oil over garlic grilled bread 

2010 Feudi Maccari Grillo 

pettine di tuffatore con caponata

seared diver scallop over stewed eggplant 

2011 Feudi San Gregorio Ros’aura 

 pasta milanese con funghi

orrecchiette tossed with basil pesto, green beans, potatoes, & wild mushrooms 

2008 Zisola Nero D’avola 

 involtini di vitello

grilled veal medallion stuffed with prosciutto, onion, & reggiano 

2009 Agricola Punica Isola dei Nuraghi Montessu 

torta e frutti di bosco

trifle cake with fresh cream panna cotta & berries 

Sogno di Sorrento Limoncello

Roasted Tomato and Fresh Mozzarella Pasta Salad

With tomato season in full swing right now, I just can't get enough.  I eat them daily; sliced raw, chunked in salads, chopped on bruschetta, cooked into sauces and one of my favorite ways, roasted.  It is such a simple but flavorful way to prepare tomatoes and once roasted you can refrigerate them for about a week and use them as toppings on pizza, crostini, sandwiches, pasta, really to anything you would normally use the fresh ones for.  And the great thing about this pasta salad that I served cold yesterday, we can warm up the leftovers for dinner tonight with a little parmigiano cheese thrown on top.

Roasting tomatoes is really simple and the key to them not drying and shriveling up is using a good amount of olive oil. Once prepped you slide them in the oven and wait for the wonderful aromas of roasting herbs and garlic to fill up your house for the next two hours!  The end result in amazing and I suggest you make extra to keep in the frig to top off your favorite savory foods.

Ingredients
50-60 ripe cherry or grape tomatoes
1/2 C. olive oil
4 cloves of garlic minced
2 T. fresh rosemary chopped fine
2 T. fresh oregano
2 T. fresh thyme
Salt & pepper
1 t. pepperoncini (optional)
1 lb. dried pasta - rigatoni, bow-tie or penne work great
8 oz. fresh mozzarella
10-12 fresh basil leaves

Preheat your oven to 200 degrees.  Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicon mat.  Cut your tomatoes in half and line them up on the baking sheet.  Drizzle entire pan with olive oil, be sure that each tomato gets doused. Sprinkle the garlic, herbs, salt, pepper and pepperoncini over the tomatoes, put in the oven and roast, turning the tomatoes over once after about an hour.

After two hours remove your pan and put a big pot of water on to boil.  Cook your pasta according to instructions and drain when finished.  Let the pasta cool, mixing in a little olive oil to keep it from sticking. 

In the meantime, shred your mozzarella by simply pulling it apart by hand and finely chop the basil.  Once the pasta and tomatoes have cooled, add it all together with your remaining ingredients, add salt and pepper to taste.  Simple and really good!

Olio, Limoni e Ospitalità del Sud (Olive Oil, Lemons and Southern Hospitality)

View of Bay of Naples from Frantoio Ferraro

The day was warm and dry, one of the first of such since we arrived on the coast. May, we discovered, is very different from July, the weather can be cool and a bit unpredictable.  Taking full advantage of the beautiful day, Vincenzo's brother-in-law Nicola drove us to Pompeii where a few of the girls went in to see the magnificent ruins while those of us who have already been went shopping.  After a few hours we all had our fill and took a drive down the coast to visit a frantoio, an olive mill owned by friends of Vincenzo, perched atop the high cliffs of the Sorrentine Peninsula. Stomachs rumbling from the swervy coastal switchbacks and the small breakfast consumed hours ago, we were anxious for our lunch on the "dal patriarca", the local term for a coastal garden by the olive mill where they entertain guests lucky enough to know about this place.

A lovely garden table was set for us with the beautiful Bay of Naples in full view. The warmth and generosity of the people in this area is like no other and owners Nicola and Pia bring their own regional meaning to the term southern hospitality. You instantly feel as if you are part of the family, and so you eat like family with course after course of delicious home style cooking made from recipes passed down for generations lovingly served and prepared by Pia herself.  Nicola shares a bottle of wine that he made himself from the Aglianico grapes of Taurasi and of course their olive oils add incredible flavor to all of the foods served.

Owners Pia and Nicola

Another afternoon spent relaxing with friends, indulging ourselves with delicious food and drink.  Piano, piano...slowly, slowly we take our time and finish the meal with Pia's handmade limoncello, truly the best we've ever had.  Stomachs now full and heads spinning a bit from wine and limoncello, we take a quick tour of the mill and buy as much olive oil as we can fit in our suitcases.  I wish I could have bought more!

While all of their oils were delicious our favorite is the one infused "al limone di Sorrento".  It is simply amazing drizzled on salad or a sandwich and I discovered the other day that it is wonderful with corn.  So I'm listing a quick recipe below, an easy, fresh dish made with local corn, fresh mint, vidalia onion and of course the Frantoio Ferraro Olio Extra Vergine di Oliva al Limone di Sorrento.  And if you are visiting the Amalfi coast and would like a true, family style experience of regional food and hospitality, call Vincenzo Fusco to arrange a visit and drive you to Frantoio Ferraro, and please tell him Beth & Kerry sent you!

Salute Pia & Nicola!  Thank you for a lovely afternoon!

Fresh Corn with Frantoio Ferraro Olio Extra Vergine di Oliva al Limone di Sorrento

Ingredients
4 ears of fresh corn, cooked and cut off the cob
10 mint leaves finely chopped
1/4 of a large vidalia onion chopped
2 T Frantoio Ferraro Olio Extra Vergine di Oliva al Limone di Sorrento
Salt & Pepper to taste

Mix all ingredients together and allow to sit for 30-60 minutes for the flavors to mingle.  Serves 4

press

 Swirl Voted Best Place to Drink Wine in New Orleans!

June 2012 - Swirl voted best place to drink wine by the Where Y'at Readers!

1. Swirl - "Pick from a list of wine that is extensive, varied and best of all constantly changing with new additions. And don't worry they have plenty of wines that are totally affordable, along with frequent wine tasting events."

2. WINO

3. Bacchanal

 Rachael Ray's Vacation, Shot at Swirl:

Wine Enthusiast Magazine:

 

 Article:  Beyond the Glass
Wine shops are now acting as social centers, schools, restaurants, even travel agencies, offering far more than just free tastings.

Yelp! Reviews:

New Orleans Magazine:

Article: Best Bars 

Greek Wine Dinner @ Maurepas Foods

Greek Wine Dinner
Tuesday, June 26, 2012 at 6:30 pm
Maurepas Foods - 3200 Burgundy Street
$85 per person (tax & gratuity not included)
504.267.0072 By Reservation Only

Presented by Swirl Sensational Wines, Uncorked Wines, & Ted Diamantis, importer

Gulf Fish Crudo
semolina bread, cucumber, mint
(Sigalas Asyritiko, Santorini, Greece)

Eggplant Puree on Sponge Cake
local honey, fennel
(Zoe Rose, Peloponnese, Greece)

Heirloom Tomatoes
squid, pickled mustard seed, flatbread
(Skouras St. George, Nemea, Greece)

Squashes
green peppercorn, whey, olive oil
(Alexakis Vidiano, Crete, Greece)

Grilled Sardines
watermelon, haloumi, parsley, basil vinaigrette
(Alpha Estate Axia Malagouzia, Amyndeo, Greece)

Two Run Farm Lamb Leg Steak
sweet pepper puree, heart salad, oregano-scented new potatoes
(Skouras Mega Oenos Agiorgitiko, Peloponnese, Greece)

Stone Fruit Tart
(cocktail: "The Evrosti" - trans. "The Robust")

Chef Michael Doyle
Pastry Chef Jessica Stokes

True Italian Lasagna

Lasagna in Italy, not the cheesy, saucy stuff we make here in the US, is a very involved process.  It all starts with a soffritto, followed by a meat ragu and if you REALLY like the people you are cooking for, you make the pasta.  It is the only way to achieve the thin, thin layers that melt in your mouth and help give the lasagna its light texture.  But it is a labor of love that takes patience and proper timing.

The first time I had this amazing dish was in Tuscany last year on our wine and food tour.  Antonio's sister knows an Italian nonna who is in her 80's and makes the best lasagna you've ever eaten.  She made us two big pans that arrived at our villa still warm from the oven, and we served outside in the garden with some delicious Cortona red wines.  It takes her 2 days to make it, and now having done it myself, I know why.

I've been doing a series of posts on the recipes for the soffritto, the ragu, the pasta and the besciamella; now it's time to put it all together!  It's best to make this over a two day period....the links to the recipes are highlighted in orange below.

First Day
Step One:  Make the Soffritto
Like the Holy Trinity of New Orleans cuisine, a "soffritto" is the starting point for many Italian soups, sauces and stews. While locally we use equal parts onion, celery and green peppers, in Italy the base is usually a combination of carrots, onion and celery with the proportions of each depending on what you are cooking.

To begin to make the meat ragu, I first need the soffritto.  Using the recipe in Frances Mayes new Tuscan Sun cookbook, I began the long journey to tomorrow's lasagna!

First Day

Step Two:  Make the Ragu
Every cook in Italy has their own ragu recipe, variations on a theme of ground mixed meats, tomatoes, soffritto, herbs and spices.  But one thing that remains constant is the love and care that goes in to making the perfect ragu.  I don't claim to have achieved it yet, but I've learned a few tricks along the way that have helped me get a wonderfully flavorful sauce that can be used in many dishes.  I like to make a big pot, use some and freeze the rest for a quick tagliatelle on a busy day.

Second Day
Step Three:  Make the Dough
I have two pasta dough recipes that I use on a regular basis, one is from Lidia Bastianich, the other is from Francis Mayes.  I like them both equally as much, but when I made the lasagna I used Frances Mayes and I thought the texture and pliability of this dough was ideal for achieving the thin sheets needed for this dish.  The ingredients vary ever so slightly and the process is the same.  I use a kitchen aid mixer for the initial blending, kneed the dough by hand and after it has rested I use the pasta attachment for my mixer to roll the sheets. In this post I'll take you to the point where the dough is resting, before you roll it.

Second Day
Step Four:  Make the Besciamella
So your dough is currently resting and you have time to make your besciamella before we start assembling the dish.  Either of these recipes will give you the desired affect of adding a wonderful creaminess to your layers of lasagna, read through them both and decide what you have the energy for!

Step Five:  Assembling the Lasagana


Remaining Ingredients
-1 lb fresh egg pasta dough resting
-5 oz. Parmesan cheese, grated
-2-5 oz. balls of mozzarella
-a handful of fresh sage leaves
-olive oil


-Preheat you oven to 350 degrees F and butter a large baking dish. Put a big pot of salted water with a good glug of oil on the stove for the pasta.

-Reheat your  ragu and put keep your white sauce on the stove at a very low heat,  to keep it warm and make it easier to work with.

-Roll out your pasta dough
Rolling the dough with a pasta machine (I used the Kitchen Aid attachments). Cut the ball of dough into 6 equal pieces. Shape each piece into a rectangle about 5x3 inches. Lightly flour the pasta rectangles and cover them with a kitchen towel. Set the rollers of the pasta machine to the widest setting. Pass one of the pasta rectangles through the rollers long side first, then pass it though the rollers a second time. Keep the dough lightly floured-just enough to prevent if from sticking to the rollers. Reduce the width by one setting and pass the piece of dough through the rollers again. Support the dough with your hand as it comes through the rollers-don't pull it though, or the dough will shrink so it is narrower than the width of the rollers.


Continue working with the piece of dough and reducing the width one setting each time until the dough has been passed through to the proper setting. (Each pasta machine is different. I finish with the next to the thinnest one);You want to roll out strips of pasta that are about 3 x 10 inches depending on the size of your pan. I made mine a little longer and wider to accommodate the round shape of my pan.  Always keep the pieces of dough that aren't being rolled covered with a towel. If you find the dough is very elastic, let all pieces rest for 5 to 10 minutes before continuing.

When you have rolled one of your pieces of dough into the correct size, blanch 2 strips at a time in the boiling water and cover the bottom of the baking dish with pasta strips, letting them hang over the edges.  Put down a layer of meat sauce, then some white sauce and a sprinkling of fresh Parmesan.  Roll and blanch another piece of dough and continue to repeat the process until you run out of ragu. But keep back enough white sauce for a final layer on top.


Fold the over the pasta ends from the edges and top with the white remaining sauce. Sprinkle with Parmesan, tear the mozzarella over the top, scatter your sage leaves and drizzle with olive oil. Bake in the preheated over for 45 minutes or so until golden.


Prepare to "wow" your friends and family...

All of this effort deserved a fine wine so we opened a gorgeous 2001 Castelgiocondo Brunello di Montalcino signed by the Marchesi di Frescobaldi himself when he was in the shop one day way back when...

Exciting New Wine Bar Menu!

We've had such a great response to our Wednesday Nite Flites that we've completely changed our menu and now EVERY NITE can be FLITE NITE! Here's how it works:

1.  You can order a glass of wine as usual and choose from over 25 wines by the glass or half bottle with prices ranging from $6 to $24.

2.  Choose 3 of  any wines listed with a 2oz. pour and build your own flite.  Or we'll ask you a few questions about your drinking preferences and build one for you! $15/flite

3.  Want to try just a half glass of something new and interesting but don't want to commit to a full glass?  Anything listed with a 2oz. pour is available for your drinking pleasure! Prices range from $3.50-$6.50

So what are you waiting for?  Come to the shop and experiment with new wines and regions because we have as much fun creating the flites as you'll have drinking them!

Almost there...the Besciamella

 Step 1: Make the soffritto
Step 2:  Make the ragu
Step 3: Make the dough
Step 4: Make the besciamella

The French call it Bechamel, Americans say white sauce but no matter what you call it, it is an important component of true Italian lasagna and many other baked pasta dishes.  I have two recipes to share with you, one is quick and simple, the other a little more time consuming but it adds some subtle flavors to this delicate sauce.

So if you are following my series of recipes on making lasagna, your dough is currently resting and you have time to make your besciamella before we start assembling the dish.  Either of these recipes will give you the desired affect of adding a wonderful creaminess to your layers of lasagna, read through them both and decide what you have the energy for!

From Frances Mayes Tuscan Sun Cookbook
Makes 2 cups

4 T. unsalted butter
4 T. All-Purpose flour
2 Cups whole milk
A few gratings of fresh nutmeg
1 t. salt

Over medium-low heat, melt the butter in a 1-1/2 quart saucepan and add the flour.  Cook, stirring 2 minutes, until it forms a paste and is ever-so-slighty browned.  Remove from the heat and whisk in the milk all at once.  Return to medium-low heat and cook, stirring until thickened, about 5 minutes.  Add the nutmeg and salt.

From Jamie Oliver's Jamie's Italy

-1-3/4 pints of milk
-a sprig of fresh parsley
-a pinch of nutmeg
-1/2 onion, peeled and sliced
-6 black peppercorns
-6 tablespoons of butter
-1/2 cup all purpose flour
-5-1/2 oz. freshly grated Parmesan cheese
-sea salt and freshly ground pepper

Directions
Put the milk, parsley, nutmeg, onion and peppercorns into a pot. Heat to just below the boiling point.

While milk is heating take a deep pan and melt the butter. Begin to slowly add in the flour and stir until it is totally mixed in. By this time your milk should be ready. Take it off of the stove and strain out herbs and onions. Begin adding the strained milk to the butter and flour a ladle full at a time mixing it in completely before you add another. You should have a very smooth white sauce. Bring to a low boil, simmer a few minutes and then take off the heat. Mix in the Parmesan and season.


Ok so, we have all of the components needed so let's pour ourselves a glass of wine and make some lasagna!

Time to Make the Pasta!

Step 1: Make the soffritto 
Step 2:  Make the ragu
Step 3: Make the dough


True Italian Lasagna, not the cheesy, saucy stuff we make here in the US, is a very involved process.  It all starts with a soffritto, followed by a meat ragu and if you REALLY like the people you are cooking for, you make the pasta.  It is the only way to achieve the thin, thin layers that melt in your mouth and help give the lasagna its light texture.  But it is a labor of love that takes patience and proper timing.

So we've already made the soffritto, and from that a delicious ragu is bubbling on the stove.  Next we'll make the dough and as it is resting, we'll make the besciamella, then roll out and quickly blanch the pasta noodles and start to assemble the lasagna.

On to the dough.  I have two pasta dough recipes that I use on a regular basis, one is from Lidia Bastianich, the other is from Francis Mayes.  I like them both equally as much, but when I made the lasagna I used Frances Mayes and I thought the texture and pliability of this dough was ideal for achieving the thin sheets needed for this dish.  The ingredients vary ever so slightly and the process is the same.  I use a kitchen aid mixer for the initial blending, kneed the dough by hand and after it has rested I use the pasta attachment for my mixer to roll the sheets. 

In this post I'll take you to the point where the dough is resting, before you roll it.  While it is resting, we'll start the besciamella.

Click here Lidia's recipe.

Frances Mayes Basic Pasta

Ingredients for 1lb. of pasta
2-1/2 cups of all purpose flour, plus additional for kneading
3 eggs
1 t. salt
2 t. extra virgin olive oil
1 to 2 T. water, plus additional if needed




Directions
In a small bowl, beat the eggs, salt, olive oil and 1 T. of the water.  Place your flour in the mixer bowl and put on the dough hook attachment. With the mixer on low speed, pour the egg mixture into the mixing bowl. Mix just until the mixture comes together to form a rough dough. If the dough seems to dry, drizzle a very small amount of water into the bowl.


Remove the dough from the bowl and knead using the remaining flour, and more if necessary, using the following method.Once you have formed a rough dough, it is ready to knead. Flour a marble or wooden work surface. Press the heel of one handing deep into the dough, keeping your fingers high. Then press down on the dough while pushing it firmly away from you-the dough will stretch and roll under your hand like a large shell. Turn the dough over, then press into the dough first with the knuckles of one hand, then with the other; do this about ten times with the knuckles of each hand. Use the knuckles of your forefingers especially during this process.


Then repeat the stretching and "knuckling" process, using more flour if needed to prevent sticking, until the dough is smooth and silky, 10-20 minutes. Roll the dough into a smooth ball. Cover the dough with a damp dishtowel and let it rest for at least 1 hour at room temperature, or up to 1 day in the refrigerator, before rolling and shaping the pasta. If the dough has been refrigerated, let it stand at room temperature for at least 1 hour before rolling and shaping.



So, while the dough is resting we can make the besciamella.  I'll post that recipe tomorrow!

Next Step, Tuscan Ragu

Step 1: Make the soffritto 
Step 2:  Make the ragu


True Italian Lasagna, not the cheesy, saucy stuff we make here in the US, is a very involved process.  It all starts with a soffritto, followed by a meat ragu.

Every cook in Italy has their own ragu recipe, variations on a theme of ground mixed meats, tomatoes, soffritto, herbs and spices.  But one thing that remains constant is the love and care that goes in to making the perfect ragu.  I don't claim to have achieved it yet, but I've learned a few tricks along the way that have helped me get a wonderfully flavorful sauce that can be used in many dishes.  I like to make a big pot, use some and freeze the rest for a quick tagliatelle on a busy day.

They key, as in all good recipes, is the freshness and quality of the ingredients.  Three types of meat give you a more complex flavor and if possible have the butcher grind the meat for you fresh so that you really know what is in that package.  Fresh tomatoes are ideal but a can of San Marzanos can give excellent results. I did a combination of both here and am really happy with the outcome.  Dried herbs will work but again, fresh is best!
 
Use a 6 Qt. pot for this, it will give you plenty of room to brown the meat.  One of the things I've learned along the way by reading over many, many recipes from Italian chefs and home cooks, is how to achieve the proper texture of the meat.  If you notice when you eat ragu in Italy it is not chunky, the meat doesn't glob together, the vegetables are chopped finely, giving the sauce a smooth, light texture.  So you'll need a wooden spoon and a lot of patience to achieve this and I'll explain below when we get to the step.

The ingredient list, with a few minor changes, is Guisi’s Ragu from The Tuscan Sun Cookbook by Frances Mayes and her husband Edward Mayes. I've listed my changes and her originals.  This recipe will give you enough ragu for the lasagna as well a quite a bit to freeze for later.  If you are making the lasagna, I recommend you prepare the ragu the day before as it takes about 4 hours.

Serves 10

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound ground lean beef
1 pound ground veal (Mayes uses pork)
2 large links of sausage, casings removed.  I found a delicious duck and pork at Rouses with no additives or preservatives.  (Mayes uses Italian sausages, and Terranova's would be perfect)
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon pepper
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves or 1 teaspoon dried
1 to 2 cups red wine
1 cup soffritto (recipe below)
2 tablespoons tomato paste
8 whole tomatoes finely chopped, 1-28oz can of San Marzano tomatoes, finely chopped.  Mayes calls for16 to 20 tomatoes or 2 28-ounce cans whole tomatoes, juice included, chopped

Pour the olive oil into a 6-quart heavy pot with a lid. Next, add all the ground meat to the pot. Here is where the most work is involved. Using a large wooden spoon keep breaking up the meat into smaller and smaller pieces as it cooks. Do not brown it too much or dry out. Don’t let it sit in the hot shortening on the bottom of the pot and sear. Keep moving it around; it should just lose its color. Keep working on the meat and keep breaking it up into smaller and smaller pieces. It should also begin to smell wonderful.

When the meat has lost all its pink color and is reduced to minuscule bits (10-12 minutes), add the salt, pepper, thyme, and 1 cup of the red wine. After the wine has cooked into the meat, about 10 minutes, add the soffritto, and stir in the tomato paste and tomatoes.

Bring the sauce to a boil, and then lower to a quiet simmer. Partially cover, and continue cooking for 3 hours, stirring now and then. Along the way, add the remaining cup of wine if you think the sauce is too dense.

Maurepas Foods and Greek Wines

Swirl, Maurepas Foods and Uncorked Wines are pairing up to bring you the robust cuisine of Chef Michael Doyle and a wonderful selection of wines from Greece.  Maurepas Foods is great neighborhood joint known for their support of our local farmers and fishers which means chef's menu is a work in progress depending on what is fresh and available that day!

Showcasing some of our favorite farmers, chef will begin with a few different preparations of  their freshest vegetables and greens.  A pair of seafood dishes will follow showing the diversity of these richly layered wines.  Then on to a lamb from Two Run Farms in Mississippi and a robust red.  Pastry chef Jessica Stokes is finding just the right touch to finish off our feast, something delicious, no doubt, to pair with an ouzo cocktail. The wines will be presented by importer Ted Diamantis  who has spent the last 20 years seeking out small producers that deliver incredible quality wines that will change any preconceived notions you have about Greek wines.

6 wines, a cocktail and 7 courses, $85 plus tax and tip.  Reservations are required for this event, call Maurepas Foods at 504.267.0072, quickly, this is sure to be a sell out! Tuesday June 26, 6:30pm.