Cafe Degas' Infamous La Gratinee d'Oignon

I've been wanting this recipe for a long time, but thinking that something tasting this good would not be easily had, I never asked.  However, as I browsed the newly released Cafe Degas Cookbook, quickly looking through the soup section, there it was, their infamous La Gratinee d'Oignon.  Many nights I've sat at the small bar feasting on this hearty rich soup, savoring those soft delicious onions, chewing on the stringy melted gruyere, never wanting to get to the bottom of the bowl....

And the cookbook itself is really wonderful.  Starting with some of their signature cocktails, to amuse bouche and entrees and dessert, you'll see your favorite recipes accompanied by great photos from Sara Essex Bradley that really capture the essence and character of the place.  The cookbooks are available at the restaurant and they are having a book signing party at Cafe Degas on Wednesday February 16th.  Call Cafe Degas for more details, but in the meantime, make yourself some delicious French Onion Soup!


La Gratinee d'Oignon
from The Cafe Degas Cookbook


2 slices bacon
1 T butter
2 cloves garlic
3 medium onions
1 cup white wine
1 small bouquet garni
1 bay leaf
1 cup chicken stock
1 cup beef stock
1 T thyme
1/2 t black pepper
1/2 t salt
Toasted baguette slices
Grated Gruyere cheese

In a large pot over low heat render bacon in butter allowing fat to coat the bottom of the pot.  Add garlic and simmer lightly.  Add 1/4 of the onions and cook stirring lightly until browned.  Deglaze with white wine. Add remaining onions, bouquet garni, bay leaf, stock and cook stirring occasionally for 1 hour. Add remaining ingredients and cook for 3 hours or until onions are very soft. To serve place one slice of toasted baguette on top of each bowl of soup and the drizzle a generous amount of cheese to cover. If desired broil for one minute to melt and brown cheese.

Cafe Degas

3127 Esplanade Avenue
New Orleans, LA 70119
(504) 945-5635  

www.cafedegas.com/

Under the Radar Wines

We've got a few things in the store right now that I think are really interesting wines, with distinct personalities that you should know about.  These aren't expensive, none of them are even rated by any of the industry mags, but just really good solid wines with a sense of place that deliver a lot for the money.

The first is something pretty crazy, a Brazilian Cabernet of all things.  It's made by the Miolo family who immigrated to Brazil from Italy in the late 1800's and have been making wine there ever since.  The winery is located in Southern Brazil in the Vale dos Vinhedos, between the cities of Bento Gonçalves, Garibaldi and Monte Belo and is the only area of the country with a regional wine designation.  Their 2006 Miolo Reserva Cabernet is medium bodied, soft on the palate with an earthy nose of cloves, cassis and cocoa and it is a steal for $10.50.  If you are looking to try something new, this is not an ordinary $10 Cabernet!

Our second wine is a delicious Oregon Pinot Noir made by producer Dominio IV.  Lucky for us, famed Oregon producer Archery Summit had a little too much fruit in 2009 and a connection between the two wineries made it possible for Dominio to purchase their grapes.  The 2009 Dominio IV Love Lies Bleeding is made from the estate grapes of Archery Summit in Dundee Hills. Archery Summits' estate Pinot Noirs typically retail over $80 per bottle. This is a great chance to try their premium fruit at a reduced price! $22.99!!

A great little wine from Tuscany came to me last week at a really wonderful price that I just love passing on to our customers! Lionello Marchese's 2007 Sughere Morellino di Scansano is 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet.  While a bit softer on the palate than their Chianti cousins, this Morellino has bright cherry notes, with a little earthy tobacco thrown in.  A lovely medium bodied red from an incredible vintage that would be the perfect accompaniment to pizza, pasta, cured meats and cheeses.  Nothing too complicated, but a joy to drink, especially with the right food! $14.99 (most prices online are $20 and up...)

Pork Chops with Balsamic Glaze

We had the rare occasion of a Saturday night at home this weekend and I wanted to cook, but didn't want to spend a lot of time in the kitchen.  I had bought some pork chops, not something I make often, there was a nice bunch of kale in the frig and some arugula pesto I had leftover from our most recent DC8 dish. I found a recipe for "Maiale in Agrodolce"  a Roman dish that used honey and balsamic vinegar to create a delicious, finger-licking-good, eat-it-with-a-spoon, sweet and sour sauce.  Now I've made balsamic glazes before but you have to trust me on how good and how simple this was...

My original thought was to grill the pork chops, but we were out of charcoal so I decided to just use the grill pan on the stove.  From start to finish this took me about 45 minutes and even if I had to make the arugula pesto it would have been the same, as there was a little down time and the pesto is quick.

Serves 4

Ingredients
4  10-oz. bone-in pork chops
Extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1⁄3 cup balsamic vinegar
2 tbsp. honey
4 tbsp. unsalted butter
1  sprig fresh rosemary, torn into 1" pieces

1. Put pork chops on a plate; drizzle with oil; season generously with salt and pepper; let sit for 30 minutes.

2.  Meanwhile, combine vinegar and honey in a 1-qt. saucepan and cook over medium heat until reduced to 1⁄4 cup. Stir in butter and rosemary and set aside.

3.  Heat up a grill pan and add a few tablespoons of Olive Oil to keep the pork from sticking.

4. Put pork chops in the grill pan and cook, occasionally turning and basting with balsamic mixture, until browned and cooked through, 12–14 minutes. Transfer to a platter and let sit for 5 minutes before serving.

A Twelfth Night to Remember

Taking no break from the eating and drinking of the holiday season, we spent Twelfth Night last week feasting with friends.  Twelfth Night in New Orleans marks the end of the Christmas and the start of Mardi Gras, and gives us all another reason to have a party!

An interesting group of people made for great conversations with topics ranging from political discussions, recent films, travel, wine, art and ducks on the bayou (a discussion that ended promptly as views tended to swim on opposite banks...) Everyone contributed something for the meal, from delicious fresh baked breads, my favorite garlic shrimp, Kerry's zucchini ribbon salad, mushroom and truffle risotto, a decadent double dose of pistachio desserts with both cake and gelato, and the best beef tenderloin I've ever eaten doused with a delicious red wine sauce.  Made by Rachel and Marline with Moises Dundee Hills, the sauce was absolutely fabulous, and made even more special by having James Moises and his wines at the table.  We fed both stomachs and souls that night and I truly hope there are more such evenings together in our future!

Here is their recipe for beef tenderloin  and the cleverly coined "Moises Sauce".

Beef Tenderloin with Moises Sauce

Ingredients

4 T butter
1 T flour
1 cup finely chopped onion
1 cup finely chopped carrot
1 cup finely chopped celery
2 T tomato paste
1 1/4 cup Moises Dundee Hills Pinot Noir
1 1/4 cup chicken broth
1 1/4 cup beef broth
1 3.5 lb beef tenderloin
2 T cracked black pepper

Directions

Mix 2 T butter and flour in small bowl. Melt 1 T butter in heavy large skillet over low heat. Add onion, carrot and celery, sauté until vegetables are tender, about 10 minutes.

Add tomato paste; stir until vegetables are coated.

Add wine; boil until liquid is reduced by half, about 3 minutes.

Add both broths, boil until liquid is reduced to 1 1/4 cups, about 5 minutes.

Strain liquid, discarding solids. Return liquid to skillet.

Add butter/flour mixture to sauce, whisk over medium heat until sauce thickens, about 1 minute. Season to taste with pepper. (Sauce can be prepared 1 day ahead.)

Take meat out of fridge, one hour before cooking. Sprinkle beef with cracked pepper and salt.

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Put a small bit of vegetable oil in heavy large skillet over high heat. Add beef and brown each side 4 minutes on top of stove.

Roast about 15-20 minutes (or until meat thermometer says 160 if thick – if thinner maybe less 140). Remove from oven and let rest 10 minutes. Serves 4-6.

Enjoy!

Gambas al Ajillo (Shrimp with Garlic)

This is one of my absolute favorite quick and delicious shrimp recipes.  I make this often and can't believe I've never posted the recipe.  Fresh Gulf shrimp are a must and we get them either from K-jeans on Carrollton or the Farmer's Market.   Served with plenty of bread to dip into the garlicky oil, they are a huge crowd pleaser!

Makes 8 tapas size portions

ingredients
•    1 cup extra-virgin olive oil
•    4 garlic cloves, minced
•    6 whole dried red chiles
•    1/4 cup minced flat-leaf parsley
•    3lbs. head-on jumbo Gulf shrimp (shelled, deheaded and deveined is about 2lbs)
•    Salt
•    Crusty bread, for serving

directions
1.  Shell, dehead and devein your shrimp, rinse and pat dry.
2.  In a very large, deep skillet, heat the olive oil until shimmering. Add the garlic, chiles and parsley and cook over moderately high heat for 10 seconds, stirring. Add the shrimp and cook over high heat, stirring once, until they are pink and curled, 3 to 4 minutes. Season with salt and transfer to small bowls. Serve with crusty bread.

NOTES
Sprinkle the shrimp after they’re cooked with a crunchy sea salt, like flaky Maldon salt from England or chunky Sanlucar salt from Spain.

Wine of the Moment, 2008 Chono Reserva Syrah

Matt Lirette brought this delicious Syrah to me a few weeks ago to try and I knew we had to have it!  Chono is situated in the Elqui Valley, 500 kilometers north of Santiago, Chile and close to the Pacific Ocean which makes for cooling breeze and longer hang time for ripeness.  Handpicked from the stony, wind-swept slopes of this semi-arid desert vineyard, grapes give rich color and intense spice, with notes of tar and touches of bacon fat, a true poor man's Côte Rôtie!  Small yields give the wine great concentration, the tannins are round and supple, and the mouth delivers an endless flood of rich, black fruits.  One of Chile's most renowned winemakers, Alvaro Espinoza, guides this wine from field to bottle making for an outstanding value for its high quality, and a sheer pleasure to drink.  

$15.50; Try  it Wednesday in our 90under20 Tasting!

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, 90 pts

Medium purple; smoked meat and game, lavender, spice box; lots of flavor, no hard edges.

Savory Bites

...offering tidbits of information on interesting discoveries in the food and wine scene of New Orleans.

The Best Gimlet in Town 

During the busy holiday season when 12 hour work days are the norm you can often find Kerry and me sitting at the bar at Cafe Degas sipping on a cocktail and resting our feet.  Nick, the sometimes cranky but always entertaining bartender, knows what we want before we even sit down, his perfectly mixed Vodka Gimlet.  So refreshing with the tart lime combined with just a touch a sweetness, it is the perfect end to a long hard day.

We went over to Cafe Degas last night to toast the end of the holiday season and I asked Nick if I could have his recipe for this blog.  But like any good bartender or cook, the recipe is not exact as it depends on how juicy or tart the limes are (fresh limes are a must), what type of vodka you use, etc.  So here's his basic Vodka Gimlet recipe, that you can adjust based on how tart or sweet you like your cocktails.  

Cheers!

Vodka Gimlet

    * 2 oz Kettle One Vodka
    * 3/4 oz Lime juice, freshly squeezed
    * 1/4-1/2 oz Simple Syrup

Combine ingredients in a shaker ¾ full of ice. Give it all a good shake, strain into a pre-chilled cocktail glass, garnish with a twist of lime, and settle down to enjoy one of life’s tarter pleasures.
 

Top 10 Wine Moments of 2010

Like it or not, New Year's Eve tends to be a day of reflection. As many news publications like to write about the biggest news stories or the best movies of the year, I started reminiscing yesterday about my top 10 wine moments of the past 12 months. This isn't a buying guide nor does it have anything to do with ratings, I'm not even sure if all of these wines are still available, and some of the experiences are not even about a particular wine. These are really just 10 specific, very special moments in time when everything came together and made me pause and say to myself "hmmm! this is why I do what I do..."

1.  As much as we like to costume and drink wine, you would think that Kerry and I would be veterans of this New Orleans Mardi Gras tradition, but 2010 Krewe of Cork Parade was our inaugural year!  And what a time we had with six straight hours of Taittinger Champagne, lots of fun with our friends from Republic and the shop, great costumes and a festive parade through the Quarter. And of course Clovis Taittinger was the perfect Grand Marshall for the event!   

2. When Lacie from Glazer's first came to me about an event with winemaker Terry Hoage, I admit I had to a bit of research about the guy and his wines before I agreed.  But after tasting his small production Rhone style wines from California and checking out the great press on the wines, it was the fact that he was an ex-Saints player and that the tasting was in that magical month of February 2010 that was the clincher for the event.  And let me tell you we drank some really wonderful wine that night with Terry and his wife Jennifer being the most gracious hosts.  Everyone fell in love with both them and the wines and responded by buying everything, all seven cases we had in stock of his delicious, high end white, rose and reds from Paso Robles.  We're still waiting on that Saint's label Terry!

3. It was a Sunday night, I had a great day cycling, taking Sangi to the park, playing frisbee with Kerry, working on the blog, and of course, making pasta! I had a little bit of pork ragu left our dinner the night before and another pound of dough in the frig, so I made some quick fettuccine, Kerry did a beautiful salad and we were in for a delicious meal. I decided to do something very unlike me and drink a Napa Valley Cabernet with my Italian dinner! But it wasn't just any Napa Cab, it was the 2003 White Rock Cabernet made by Christopher Vandendriessche.  The crisp acidity, spicy fruit, leathery notes and lower alcohol content made it absolutely gorgeous with the food and that night I committed to seeking out more California producers that would please my old world palate! 

4. The tragic death of artist Rudy Rowell in December 2009 marked the loss of a wonderful man who fiercely loved New Orleans and the south. His colorful works were a passionate display of that love and touched so many people. On the night of Rudy's birthday, March 30, we held a silent auction in the shop to raise money for his mother who had suffered multiple tragedies in the past 2 years.  The evening of the auction was bittersweet as we were surrounded by his beautiful spirit through his paintings and by people who knew and loved both he and his work.  We drank the 2005 Gundlach-Bundschu Reserve Cabernet, adorned with one of Rudy's now famous paintings on the label, as we toasted his life.  His work brought so much joy to so many people and we are so grateful to have known him.  We really miss you Rudy!

5. What do you get when you combine two creative passionate wine geeks with a love of Napa Valley and an absolute devotion to experiencing all that is good about their native city? Vending Machine Winery, the love child of Monica Bourgeois and Neil Gernon, held their official launch at Swirl in April as family, friends and guests partied the night away drinking their 3 unforgettable, small production (50 cases each at the time) Napa Valley wines to Neil's crazy music soundtrack and friends running around in puffy wine bottle costumes depicting each of the three labels.  We had another event later in the year that rivaled this one, but the initial launch was a truly special night. Thanks Monica and Neil for letting us be a part of your dream, we love you both AND your delicious wines!

6.  We first stumbled upon one of Marco de Grazia's wines by accident a few years back in a little shop in New York.  It was the first wine I had ever tasted from the Etna region, and I knew then that something very special was happening on that wild volcano in Sicilia that I needed to know more about. Thanks to our friends at Uncorked, we had the pleasure of Marco's company in the shop for an intimate, seated tasting of his wines as well as a few others he is importing.  Soft spoken, loquacious and extremely passionate about the region, it was wonderful to hear about his approach to wine making on the Etna, to taste the wines with him and hear his stories about what makes this reason so special and one of the most exciting wine producing regions in the world today. 

7. Always more of a complete sensory overload of wonderful wine, food and people was our 2010 Tre Bicchiere Wine Dinner at a Mano with our friend Antonio Molesini leading the way. Each year we hold this dinner with Antonio that features six of the highest award winning wines of the Italian wine guide, Gambero Rosso, at a top notch Italian restaurant. Chef Josh Smith nailed all of the pairings but I have to say my favorite in terms of food and wine pairing was the fresh pasta with lamb ragu with the Feudo Maccari Saia Nero d’Avola from Sicilia.   And as always, Antonio's humorous and informative presentation of the amazing award winning wines makes the evening just that much more fun!


8.  We were joined by friends for a last minute trip to the beach this past November to celebrate one of Kerry's milestone birthdays.  The birthday girl's request for dinner?  Steak and Champagne!  In addition to a few other beverages and snacks we popped a bottle of 2002 Taittinger Millesime as we dined on Tuscan style steak, reminisced about good times past, daydreamed about future adventures and laughed 'til we cried.  A beautiful yoga session on the beach at sunset led by our dear friend Angela made for the perfect end to a wonderful weekend.  It was definitely a birthday to remember!

9.  There's always something special about tasting wines with someone who has literally had their hands in the process from start to finish.  It's even more special if it is someone you've grown to love and respect for the person they are as we have with James Moises.  Anytime with James is in the shop is a great time, but standing beside him, while we all tasted for the first time each of his four single vineyard 2008 Moises Oregon Pinot Noirs, was a textbook lesson in how place can influence what is in your glass.  Each wine was vastly different than the next, having it's own unique signature while still being quintessential Oregon Pinot.  Thank you James for sharing your friendship and your delicious wines!  Your 2008s are gorgeous and we can't wait to see how they continue to evolve!

10.  Dinner at Rachel's is always an event, and even the most casual of evenings ends up being something special to write about.  But this night was especially so as a small mix of people, some strangers to each other, were invited to a dinner, prepared by Rachel and Tatyana, of their favorite tapas dishes.  All that was asked of us, their fortunate guests, was to bring a bottle of wine that meant something to us and had a story behind it.  Ours of course was an Etna wine, and the Frank Cornelissen Contadino is a story in itself but our memories of drinking it with Frank outside on his black lava rock patio made for an interesting tale.  As we sat around the coffee table littered with wine bottles sharing our stories, new friendships were formed and others deepened with delicious food, interesting wines and wonderful company.  After all, isn't that what this is all about?

 Here's wishing you and yours a Happy New Year!

December Deal of the Week!

To help you with you holiday wine shopping, each week in December we will feature an incredible deal on a wine, 30% to 50% off of the normal retail price.  And these won't be just any wines, they'll be highly rated by respected producers that you may know from spending time in our shop.

This week we have 2 deals:

2007 Bonny Doon Cigare Blanc - Rhone Ranger producer Randall Grahm is well know in the wine world for both his crazy marketing techniques and winemaking skills, and the Cigar Volant is his rendition of a Cotes du Rhone blanc.  This wine blew us away for its quality, delicious pineapple and tropical fruit topped off with nice minerality and balanced acidity.  An absolute joy to drink, it lists for $19.99 but this week only you can purchase it for *$14.99!!
 

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Nov/Dec 09; 90 Points: 
2007 Bonny Doon Vineyards Le Cigare Blanc Beeswax Vineyard Arroyo Seco ($22; 64% roussanne and 36% grenache blanc; 14.5% alcohol) "Light yellow. Peach, pear and honey aromas, with notes of green almond and dried flowers. Pliant and fleshy, offering fresh orchard and pit fruit flavors and a subtle undercurrent of smoky minerals. A dry, focused wine that will be extremely flexible at the table; the finish leaves mineral and pit fruit notes behind. I like this wine's blend of richness and energy." 

Deal Number 2:

2004 Bodegas Almansenas Adaras - I am a huge fan of Grenache, and Spain produces some of the best.  Gorgeous, deep, dark fruit with a touch of smoke this is a lush wine that retails for $40 and up but you can steal it this week for $24.99.  But I have only 3-6 pack cases, so if you want it call me!  If you love the Alto Moncayo wines, this will really make you happy at this price!

Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, #169, $40-$56, 90 Points
The 2004 Adaras is 100% Garnacha Tintorera aged for 18 months in new French oak. It presents an attractive array of mineral, scorched earth, vanilla, black cherry, and black currant aromas. This is followed by a medium to full-bodied wine with spicy, ripe flavors in a racy style.

Stephen Tanzer's International Wine Cellar, Sep/Oct 07, 90 Points
($48; 100% garnacha tintorera) Deep ruby. Pungent blackberry and plum on the nose, with smoked meat, graphite and espresso nuances. Chewy dark fruit flavors are firmed by solid tannins that carry through a long but youthfully clenched finish.

*No other discounts apply

The Shotgun Paintings & Double Shotgun Wine Tasting

What do you get when you combine two creative passionate wine geeks with a love of Napa Valley and an absolute devotion to experiencing all that is good about their native city? Vending Machine Winery is the love child of Monica Bourgeois and Neil Gernon, native New Orleanians who bring a local twist to their small production, high quality yet incredibly affordable Napa Valley Wines.  We'll taste Loula's Revenge Chardonnay and the Crooked Mayor Cabernet, but it's the Double Shotgun that will take center stage tonight.  Louisiana born, Chicago based artist Grant Schexnider, creator of the artwork for the labels, will be in the house for this exclusive, one night only showing of "The Shotgun Series", his unique paintings of this New Orleans architectural icon.  Sounds like a great way to end our 2010 tasting series! The event is free and open to the public, Tuesday December 21, 6-8pm.

Vending Machine Winery Double Shotgun:  "Upon entering the front door you notice this room is scented with fresh herb and lavender bouquets. Proceed through the middle room where walls are painted a rich garnet and hung with pictures of pretty girls holding fruit pies.  In the back you reach the kitchen where someone is cooking up a meal of smoked andouille sausage."

December Deal of the Week!

To help you with you holiday wine shopping, each week in December we will feature an incredible deal on a wine, 30% to 50% off of the normal retail price.  And these won't be just any wines, they'll be highly rated by respected producers that you may know from spending time in our shop.  For example, this weeks deal is from Chateau Pesquie in the Southern Rhone.  The Quintessence is the top cuvee from this estate and will sell normally for $22.99.  This week only you can buy this wine for $15.99!  The shipment arrives Tuesday so come on over and check it out!  Here's what Robert Parker has to say about this wine:

Wine Advocate, June 2009, Rating 91pts, Price $21-$25, Drink 2009-2014, Reviewer Robert Parker:
"Pesquie’s top cuvee, the 2006 Quintessence Rouge, is made from the estate’s oldest Syrah (80%) and Grenache (20%) vines, spends 12 months in French oak, and is bottled unfined and unfiltered. This beauty boasts a dense ruby/purple hue along with abundant aromas of blackberries, charcoal, cassis, and forest floor. The sweetness of the tannins, purity, full-bodied mouthfeel, and richness are impressive. It should drink nicely for 4-5 years.  One of the Cotes du Ventoux’s top estates."
This week only $15.99!!  Shipment arrives on Tuesday, December 7th.

Savory Bites: Three Muses

"Don't it always seem to go that you don't know what you've got till it's gone..." 

Chef Dan & Antonio

Remember the days when Chef Dan Esses was filling time with us while he was working on opening his now very popular restaurant Three Muses?   Oh how I miss those Friday nights when that sometimes cranky but always creative Jewish guy would be cooking up his tasty tapas dishes armed with nothing more that a wracked out toaster oven and a skillet. 

But luckily he hasn't gone far, so Kerry and I took a trip to the Marigny last night to visit Dan and see what's new on his very eclectic, incredibly affordable, and deliciously creative menu.  We like to sit at the bar and sip on a cocktail as we peruse the menu.  I'm quite fond of their signature drink, the muse, which is a refreshing gin, St. Germaine, strawberry and cucumber concoction that is dangerously good, while Kerry sipped on a perfectly mixed mohito.

We ordered a few dishes and I have to say that each one was an absolutely delightful blend of flavors and textures and given the chance I would order them all again next time except that I always want to try something new.  Accompanied by the live jazz vocals of Lindsey Zaworski, we feasted on small plates of the Miticana Gratin, Garlic and Sesame Asian Greens, Housemade Bresaola with Arugula and Shaved Parmesan, Lobster Egg Rolls with a Sweet Chile Lime Sauce, Braised Pork Belly with Apple Chutney and Scallion Pancakes and finished with Local Butternut Squash Ravioli in Sage and Brown Butter.  So as you can imagine at this point we are feeling a little over served, but we couldn't pass up the complimentary "Chocolate Heaven"  that Dan sent out.  And I have to admit that it was one of the best chocolate desserts I've had; moist flourless cake with a rich chocolate ganache icing, a sauce of brandied cherries accompanied by a creamy delicious scoop of their housemade candy cane ice cream.  Unbelievably delicious!

I unfortunately didn't have my camera with me, but just trust me that all of the dishes looked as good as they tasted and I can't wait to go back again!!

Three Muses

536 French­men St.
New Orleans, La 70116

(504) 298-TRIO

Antonio's Italy, A Wine and Cultural Tour of Tuscany

Antonio’s Italy
July 16th-23rd, 2011

Join us in July 2011 as Antonio Molesini, Italian Wine Specialist and a native of Tuscany, takes us on a very special wine and cultural tour of his homeland.  We’ll be living like locals, spending a week in a villa in Cortona and visiting Antonio’s favorite wineries, restaurants, hill towns and wine bars. With its centralized location, Cortona is the perfect base from which to explore both Umbria and Tuscany, allowing easy access to Assisi, Montepulciano, Chianti, Montalcino, Florence, Lake Trasimeno and more.

Sorry, This Trip is Full!

Annual Thanksgiving Hit List

Those of you who shop with us know that we just love food and wine pairing so helping to make your selections for holiday meals is a real treat. What should you drink with all of those sides and mounds of turkey? There are so many answers to that question that sometimes the best choice would be to open a bubbly, white, red and rose, put them on the table and let people chose for themselves because it’s all about personal preference!

Here are a few pairing tips and recommendations from our selection. We’ve picked traditional options at different price points so there is something for every wallet. And for those of you feeling a bit more adventurous, I've thrown in a few non-traditional choice as well, which is more along the lines of what we'll be drinking on turkey day! The wines will have a special “holiday pick” tag on the shelves and if you purchase any four of these wines for your celebration, we’ll give you a 10% discount. And we’ll be featuring 5 of these wines in our Tuesday Night Holiday Wines Tasting, so come in and try to see what will best suit your menu!

For the wide array of flavors on the Thanksgiving table, sparkling wines are a no-brainer. Bright acidity, fruit and yeasty undertones make bubbly extremely food-friendly. Especially good are Brut rosé and Blanc de Noir, which can take you from the lox or chevre hors d'oeuvre to the vinaigrette salad right through the turkey and potatoes and onto the pie. The Pinot Noir grapes in these wines provide body, some tannin for texture, red-fruit character, complexity and acid balance. And in general, the bubbles from natural carbonation from the yeast, in concert with the wine's acidity, help cleanse the palate for the next course.

Our Pick: Pierre Sparr Cremant de Alsace Rosé, $18.99; Schramsberg Rosé, $32.99 or Taittinger Cuvee Francais, $44.99

White wines with lively fruit and acidity and little to no oak are also versatile. With its aromas and flavors of citrus, apple and pear and zippy acidity plus herbal notes, Sauvignon Blanc pairs with everything from butternut-squash soup to green salad to turkey with a dressing made of briny oysters and herbs. Even notoriously tough-to-pair Brussels sprouts will sing with Sauvignon Blanc. Alsatian and German whites like Rieslings, Gewurtztraminer, Pinot Gris with their tropical fruit, citrus, green-apple, pear and mineral notes combined with thirst quenching acidity, work with almost any Thanksgiving dish except the cranberry sauce.

Our Pick: Drytown Sauvignon Blanc, $12.99; Sineann Pinot Gris, $18.99; Pierre Sparr Riesling, $14.99, Vino Noceto Pinot Grigio, $16.99, Caseglio Arneis, $16.99

"Serious" dry rosés made from Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Syrah or Mourvedre grapes or blended proprietary rosés have acidity to balance the citrus, red and stone fruits and usually sport structure and a long finish but light tannins.


Our Pick: Houchart Rosé de Provence, $14.99; Terre Nere Rosato, $17.99

Fruity reds like Beaujolais are a favorite "go-to" pick for Thanksgiving. They brings soft, easy drinking affordability to the table that's perfect for the cornucopia of flavors and large group setting that Thanksgiving entails. With their bright fruit flavors, they can perk up the milder dishes and enough have structure to hold their own with the more robust courses made with sausage and herbs. As an alternative, a good Dolcetto or lighter style Barbera can offer similar characteristics and are real crowd pleasers.

Our Pick: Pierre Chermette Beaujolais, $15.99, Paitin Dolcetto, $15.99, Castello Poggio Barbera, $15.50

Syrah and Zinfandel have the spice, dark fruit and berries to bring out the best in cranberry sauces as long as the wine has soft tannins and ripe, forward fruit and the sauce is balanced -- moderately tart and not too sweet.

Our Pick: Drytown Red on Red, $12.99; Driven Primativo, $26.99; Nicholson Ranch Syrah, $19.99; Runquist 1448, $16.50.

The best single wine to choose for Thanksgiving is Pinot Noir. This versatile varietal has tangy red fruit of strawberry and cherry, with nice acidity to balance and low levels of tannin. With elegance and a touch of earthiness to lend complexity, Pinot Noir will subtly support most things on the Thanksgiving table without overpowering them. Cranberry sauce and dessert are exceptions again, with the sauce too tart and the dessert too sweet. Something a little more adventurous, but with a similar profile could be an Etna Rosso or a Sicilian Cerasuolo.

Our Pick: Ramspeck Pinot Noir, $15.99, Surh Luchtel Russian River Pinot Noir, $24.99; Moises Yamhill Carlton Pinot Noir, $39.99; Paul Garaudet Monthelie, $27.99
Planeta Cerasuolo, $23.99,  Frank Cornelissen Contadino Etna Blend, $28.99

So there you have it! But remember the most important thing is to drink wines that make you happy with people that make you smile, because that is what it's all about!

Support Your Local Small Business on November 27th

Shop at Swirl and other small businesses on American Express' "Small Business Saturday" and receive a $25 credit on your AMEX.  Click on the link for more info and to register your card!

Tuscan Style Steak

Chianina Cattle, Tuscany

For Kerry's birthday this weekend we took off to the beach with a few friends to eat, drink and be merry.  The birthday girl wanted steak and champagne so we popped a vintage Taittinger, a bottle of 2004 Tignanello (which was still a mere baby) and threw some ribeyes on the charcoal grill.

My version of bistecca fiorentina, the first time we made this was with freshly cut Chianina beef (photo above) steaks over an open fire in a villa in Tuscany with 8 of our close friends. Although we'll never be able to recreate that special experience, it is still one of my favorite preparations and it always take me back to that magical night.

Grill some fresh t-bones or ribeyes rubbed in olive oil, salt and pepper, they should be pretty rare. While the steaks are cooking, fry a big handful of fresh sage and some rosemary in a good amount of olive oil until the sage leaves are crispy.

When the steaks are done, put them on a cutting board and thinly (1/4") slice the meat of the bone. Put the meat on a serving dish and pour the hot olive oil and herb mixture over to finish cooking and seal in the juicy flavor. Salt and pepper to taste.

Buon Appetito!

Legendary Wines of La Spinetta Poured a Mano

Kerry and I are heading to our favorite New Orleans Italian restaurant on November 17, 2010 at 7 pm for a very special wine dinner at a Mano with winemaker Giorgio Rivetti of the famed La Spinetta winery of Piedmont (and now Tuscany as well). We are really excited to take the night off from the shop and spend it with Chef Josh, Giorgio, our friends from Lirette Selections and the wonderful staff at a Mano. So if great food paired with exciting wines in the company of a famous Italian winemaker sounds like as much fun to you as it does to us, join us!

The paired dinner, featuring classic and modern Piemontese dishes prepared by Chef Joshua Smith and his diligent staff, is $95 excluding tax & tip. Reservations are essential and seating is limited. Call 208.9280 today. Check out the menu and pairings below.

Reception
Grilled octopus, potato, and caperberry spiedino
Paired with: 2009 Vermentino Toscana

Antipasti
Due Crostini: Truffled toast points with Piemontese beef crudo; Grilled polenta with porcini mushroom ragu and Castelmagno cheese
Paired with: 2004 Barbera d'Alba "Gallina" & 2007 PIN Monferrato Rosso

Primo
Risotto al Vin Cotto with veal marrow butter
Paired with: 2006 Barbaresco "Bordini" & 2006 Barbaresco "Starderi"

Secondo
Brasato al Nebbiolo:
Nebbiolo-braised Piemontese beef
Paired with: 2005 Barolo "Campe"

Dolce
Gianduia torte with hazelnut torrone
Paired with: 2003 Moscato Passito Oro

About La Spinetta:

The Rivetti family story begins in the 1890s, when Giovanni Rivetti, grandfather of the three Rivetti brothers, Carlo, Bruno and Giorgio, left Piedmont for Argentina. Like many Italians of that time, he dreamed of returning rich and a powerful man, perhaps even one day able to make a great wine in his homeland.
He never did, though his son, Giuseppe (nicknamed Pin) did. Pin married Lidia, bought vineyards and began to make wine. In 1977 the family took up residence at LA SPINETTA (top of the hill) in Castagnole Lanze. It was the heart of the Moscato d'Asti country, home of a rather light and simple dessert wine. But the Rivettis believed that Moscato had the potential for greatness and set out to prove it by making Moscato Bricco Quaglia and Biancospino.

Eventually though the family's vision became even grander. In 1985 LA SPINETTA made its first red wine, Barbera Cà di Pian. After this many great reds followed: In 1989 the Rivettis dedicated their red blend Pin to their father. In 1995 they started to make their first Barbaresco, Gallina. In 1996 and 1997 the Barbarescos Starderi, Barbera d'Alba Gallina and Barbaresco Valeirano follow. In 1998 premiered the Barbera d'Asti Superiore.
In 2000 the family's ambition of also making a Barolo became reality. The Rivettis acquired vineyards in Grinzane Cavour and built a state of the art cellar, Barolo Campè. Since 2003 visitors are welcomed to visit also Campè, outside the town of Grinzane Cavour.

In 2001 LA SPINETTA expanded over the borders of Piedmont and acquired 65 hectares of vineyards in Tuscany, between Pisa and Volterra, to make three different 100% Sangiovese wines, as Sangiovese to La Spinetta is the true ambassador of the Tuscan terrain.
La Spinetta's Tuscan Line

Truly One of a Kind, the Cornelissen Contadino 6

I've written a lot over the past year about Frank Cornelissen, a very controversial producer from the Etna region of Siciliy.  I began researching him while working with Cynthia Nicholson of The Farmhouse Table on our wine and culinary tour of Sicily last year and have been enthralled with him and his wines ever since.  Luckily our friend Matt Lirette, one of our favorite local wholesalers, has shared my interest in the region and his portfolio currently offers the largest selection of Etna producers available in Louisiana.

It is difficult to describe these wines to someone who has never tasted them.  Frank takes the terms "natural" and "non intervention" to a level that would frighten most producers and consumers.  He feels that anytime you add something to the process, be it herbicides, oak, sulfites, you take something away from the wine. Which is why Frank avoids all possible interventions including any treatments, whether chemical, organic, or biodynamic, to keep the process in tune with nature as it was done thousands of years ago.  From his vineyard practices to non-temperature controlled fermentation in plastic vats to the cellaring in clay amphorae buried into the volcanic soils of the Etna, you can't truly appreciate Frank's "hands off" approach until you've witnessed it yourself.  For my full article about our visit with Frank on the Etna, you can go to my post on The Madman of Etna.

On to the Contadino 6 (meaning 6th vintage), a wine that originally was never meant to be bottled. But a vat containing the musts of grapes and stems from both his red and white wines of his different bottlings was mistakenly tasted by a group of journalist and has gone on to be one of his most popular wines.  It's a field blend of mostly Nerello Mascalese but also with white varietals, Carricante, Dorato, Grecanico.  The grapes, twigs and leaves are all allowed to co-mingle to create an incredible cauldron of dark orange/pink liquid that teems with tobacco, cumin, cinnamon, citrus peel and tangerine. A one of a kind beverage that is the only wine of its type in the world. This is the most sophisticated vintage yet of the Contadino, unlike anything you've ever tasted, it is very intriguing, complex and enjoyable as an actual wine, not just as a study. 

However, the Contadino is not for everyone as there is nothing normal or familiar about any of Frank's wines.  You have to forget everything you expect or know about how wine tastes and approach them with a truly open mind. Drinking them is an experience, and one that I promise you won't forget even if you ultimately decide they are not for you!

To experience the full potential of Frank's wines, it is important to transport and store them at a cool temperature of 58-60 degrees.  Because the wine is unfiltered there is a lot of murky sediment in the bottle, so be sure to stand it upright for a few days before serving to allow the lees to settle.  Since they are natural there are no sulfites or preservatives added to protect against color degradation, so if left open a few hours, you will see the color evolve from granite red to volcanic black ash!!! Don't worry, the flavors become more complex with time, as the color turns. 

As you could expect, Frank does not make much wine period, so availability is limited.  But his wines are truly one of a kind and if what he does sounds intriguing to you, start with the Contadino.  Lirette Selections is also carrying the Munjebel Bianco and Munjabel Rosso so you will be seeing and hearing about those soon as well!

Also, the first time we drank this wine was with Cynthia during one of her visits to New Orleans to plan our trip.  I made a Sicilian dinner that evening and paired the Contadino with a simple but delicious dish called Pesto Trapanese and they worked beautifully together.

Cornelissen Contadino 6, $28.99

Babcock Wines, California Done Right!

I've been working a lot lately on expanding our California offerings.  It's a difficult task for an old world wine drinker, but I'm finding that if I seek out the smaller, artisan producers there's a better chance that something will pique my interest.  So when Scott Howett from Mystic Vines approached me about Central Coast winemaker Bryan Babcock, a little research told me I needed to pay attention to these wines.

It seems Bryan has been getting lots of recognition lately as the Los Angeles Times named him as one of the "Ten Best Winemakers of the Year", he was also named by this influential daily as "Most Courageous Winemaker of the Year" for his daring style. The prestigious James Beard Foundation chose Bryan as one of the "Top Ten Small Production Winemakers in the World," the only American to receive the title!

Located in the Santa Ynez Valley, the Babcock family has owned and operated the winery for over 30 years.  Pretty small production here, ranging anywhere from 300 cases to 5000 at the most.  They offer an excellent range of wines and to show you the scope of what they make we'll be tasting five of them in our Friday Free For All this week.  Definitely worth a look, what have you got to lose, it's free!

Chardonnay, $19.50                                                              
“Identity Crisis” Syrah  (a white wine, very interesting...), $16.99
“Rita’s Earth” Pinot Noir,  $24.99                                           
“Classic Rock” Cabernet, $21.99                                           
“Under the Radar”  Merlot,  $19.50                                    

Wine of the Moment, August Briggs Napa Valley Old Vine Zinfandel

Winemaker August "Joe" Briggs will be paying us a visit this week, so I thought it only fitting to write about one of his specialities, his Napa Valley Zinfandel.  Joe has been producing under his own label since 1995, and before that was the winemaker for La Crema as well as a few famous spots in the Willamette Valley.  He produces a total of 16 different wines, all in small quantities from some of the most legendary vineyards of the North Coast. 

The 2008 Napa Valley Zinfandel is a blend of three different vineyards. The first, the Luvisi vineyard, was planted in 1908 and is located just across the street from the winery. The other two are blocks of the Frediani Vineyard, also located in Calistoga, about 200 yards south of the winery on the Silverado Trail. The “old” Frediani vineyard block was planted sometime in the 1940s and the “new” block was planted in the 1950s. All three vineyards are head-trained and dry-farmed, thus yielding small, very concentrated Zinfandel grapes.

Each block was harvested and fermented separately. The clusters were hand sorted before being de-stemmed into open-top fermenters, and punched-down twice daily by hand. Following fermentation and pressing, they were inoculated for malo-lactic fermentation and barreled down. The barrels used were 30% new American oak, and 70% two to three year old French oak barrels and aged for 16 months. Due to the damaging spring frosts, Only 420 cases were produced.

From the winery:  "Our Zinfandel is flashy & fragrant with aromas of ripe black berry, black cherry, plum, cedar, and mocha oak tones. On the palate, it is rich & expressive with flavors of dark berry fruit and hints of coffee-mocha. This Zin is a bit old school in style showing great depth, but also having a balanced well structured finish."  $38 

Try this wine and 4 others with Joe on Wednesday, October 20 from 6-8pm.  The tasting is free and open to the public.