Pistaccio di Bronte Cake, A Sicilian Delight!

One of the highlights of our wine and culinary trip to Sicilia was the cooking classes we participated in as we moved from region to region. Putting on our aprons and rolling up our sleeves we were taught how to prepare wonderful Sicilian recipes using products that were specific to the area we were visiting. As we learned new cooking techniques using fresh local ingredients we had a blast interacting with the local chefs who proudly taught us family recipes passed down for generations. And in true Sicilian style, after a few hours together in the kitchen we then sat down at the table and ate what we cooked, enjoying every delicious bite!

During the first part of our journey we stayed at the Scilio Agriturismo in Linguaglossa on the north eastern slope of Mount Etna. This beautiful property has been in the Scilio family for four generations and the current owners are Giovanni and Elisabeth Scilio. In the cucina, our gracious hostess Elisabeth and chef Carmella, gave us our first taste of the most sought after pistachio in the world from the tiny town of Bronte. Bronte is perched at the top of slope of volcanic rock, located about half a mile northeast of Etna.

The Arabs, who once controlled the region, are responsible for bringing pistachio trees to Sicily from the Middle East. Sicily is the only place in Italy where pistachios are grown, and have become quite expensive due to their limited production. Pistachio cultivation in Sicily is laborious work. The trees only bear fruit every two years and the steep volcanic slopes prevent the use of machines to harvest the fruit. The intense, full flavor and grassy aroma of Bronte pistachios comes from the mineral rich soil and the Sicilian sun and air. Bronte pistachios are an essential ingredient in many Sicilian cakes and cookies but also find their way into just about everything from pasta to meat dishes and of course the infamous gelato.

This pistachio cake was the simplest dish we prepared on the trip and is amazingly rich and sinful. Elisabeth Scilio was kind enough to share her house made walnut liqueur with us that evening and the pairing was heavenly. I had to convert grams to ounces and Celsius to Fahrenheit so hopefully everything will come together!

Ingredients:
8 large organic eggs whites
14 ounces (400 grams) of sugar
1.5 t. pure vanilla extract
14 ounces (400 grams) of ground pistachio, shelled, skins removed
3.5 ounces (100 grams) of cake flour ("00")

Directions:
Preheat the oven at 325°. Mix all ingredients together to form a moist paste. Pour the mixture into a well greased spring form pan. Bake for about 30 minutes until an inserted knife comes out clean but moist. Dust with powdered sugar and drizzle with chocolate sauce if desired.

When in Roma...

We sadly said arrivederci to Sicilia and its amazing food, wine,
culture and people this morning. It was a truly wonderful trip with
an incredible group of adventurous wine lovers who spent the past two
weeks falling in love with Sicilia and sharing a very special time
together. We'll never be able to recreate the experience and feel so
fortunate to have been a part of it!

So on to the next leg of our trip, Kerry and I hopped on a quick
flight to Rome. With only two days to explore this amazing city, we
are cramming a lot of walking, eating and drinking into our schedule.
We found a great little enoteca for lunch and went to La Pollarola
near Campo dei Fiori for a wonderful Roman meal. The photo is of
Kerry chowing down on the classic Pasta alla Carbonara!

Ciao!

A Winery Free Day

Feeling a little over saturated with our wine consumption we took the
day off from visiting wineries today to explore the western coastline
of the island. We had a picnic on the beach at San Vito lo Capo, a
little seaside village noted for its beautiful ceramics. Afterwards we
drove up the amazingly steep limestone spur high above the sea to the
medieval walled town of Erice. The views of the surrounding country
side are breathtaking and on a clear day you can see the coast of
Tunisia to the south west and the Etna to the east. I'll post the
photos as soon as I can, absolutely stunning!

Visit to Planeta

Today we left our beautiful home at Mandranova and headed to the western side of the island where we will spend the next four days at the Donna Franca agriturismo just north of Marsala. On the way we stopped to tour the Planeta winery at Sambuca with our very gracious host, Chiara Planeta. One of five properties they own on the island, the vineyards here are the main production areas for their white wines and merlot and overlook Lago Arancio. Chiara led us through a wonderful tasting of many of their wines that are not available in the states as well as their award winning Cometa and Merlot. Afterwards she put together a delicious lunch of regional products including the absolute best fresh ricotta we've had yet, and believe me we've had a lot of it in the past week!

We're back on the road now, heading to our next home that will look out to the Egadi Islands and the Mediterranean Sea...ah la dolce vita!!!

Olive Oil From the Gods

The beautiful weather today allowed the staff at Mandranova to finish picking the olives. We were able to watch the pressing today and the photo is the end product, amazing and delicious freshly made olive oil. We are heading to the cucina in a few minutes for a tasting of the four different single varietal oils made on the estate. I've eaten more olive oil in the last few days than I usually have in a month and loved every drop of it!

Ciao,
Beth & Kerry

Wish You Were Here!

Today we are at Principi di Butera for a tasting of their wines and
the most amazing lunch of regional foods. This is the group making a
toast to all of you wishing you were here!

Ciao!!

Magnifica Mandranova!

Yesterday was a travel day as we said arrivederci to Etna and drove
south west to the Mandranova Olive Estate. They be picking olives
over the next few days and we will watch them press tomorrow!

Our dinner last was the best yet which is quite an accomplishment
considering what we've eating over the past 6 days! I'm having
difficulties with Internet connectios and AT&T will cost us a fortune
if we're not careful! But I've been taking tons of photos and making
detailed notes so I will try to post more when we can find some free
wifi. But I think it is safe to say that everyone is having a fabulous
time and we go to bed each evening with our bodies and our minds
completely satiated.

A presto,
Beth and Kerry

From the Etna2

After way too many hours of flying and terrible airplane food, we
arrived at our first agriturismo on the northeast slope of the
volcano, the beautiful Scilio. The terrain and vegetation here are
similar to that of southern California with undulating sepia toned
foothills, dotted with cactus, palm trees, oleander and scrubby
bushes. However the most remarkable and dramatic feature is the
abundance and use of black lava rock. Not only does it create dramatic
rock formations but it is also one of the primary building materials
for local structures, terrace and retaining wall and even roads
circling the Etna. And of course it is what makes the wines of the
region so interesting, unusual and amazing!

I woke early after a belly-filling evening of delicious local wines
and foods from the farm and decided to investigate the property. The
black lava soils line the paths and roads which weaved through the
vineyards and olive orchards eventually leading me to the Catina where
the wines are produced. Lucky for me I met a little companion cenino
who accompanied me during the rest of my walk (don't tell Sangi!).

The estate has been in the family now for five generations and the
current owners, Salvatore and Elisabeth remember that electricity was
a luxury that they didn't receive until the late 1960's!! The property
was just recently renovated and the colorful stucco and lava rock
buildings are in perfect harmony with the surroundings and the view of
the Etna from anywhere on the property is breathtaking!

Time for a quick shower and breakfast before we head up to the
vineyards of to meet Vincenzo at the vineyards of Passopisciaro!

Interent Issues

Sorry all, we are having internet issues that are keeping me from posting! We are trying to resolve it!!

From the Etna

The First Supper

We're off and flying! Our first memorable meal (not!) on Alitalia; at
least we know that things can only improve from here! Once fluent in
Italian, Kerry is practicing on the flight attendents and asking if
she can pay with carta igenico (toilet paper which is about the
current value of the good old American $!). And just in case you are
wondering, yes they still give free wine on European airlines!

Kerry's meal review: bistecca inedible and land o' lakes butter...I
mean, really. And the vino rosso - drink at your own risk. The final
word is ewwww...I wouldn't have paid for this meal with carta igenico!

Next stop Roma! We'll meet up with the rest of the group there and
then a quick flight to Catania.

A presto,
Beth and Kerry

Team Swirl after the first 75 miles!! Only 75 more to go!

Pasta alla Norma, Ziti with Tomatoes, Eggplant, and Salted Ricotta

From Lidia's Italy by Lidia Bastianich

Sicilians are passionate about both food and opera, so it is no surprise that one of the island’s most celebrated dishes is pasta alla Norma. What better way to honor the composer Vincenzo Bellini, a native son of Catania (on Sicily’s eastern coast), than to name a delicious pasta for Norma, one of the great operatic masterworks of all time?

I love both the opera and the dish, and, I can assure you, aside from their name, they’re quite different. Those of you familiar with opera know that the title role of Norma is so difficult that only the greatest sopranos ever sing it. On the other hand, this recipe is simple and
easily made.

Serves 6
Ingredients:
2 or 3 small firm eggplants (1 pound total)
1 ½ tablespoons coarse sea salt or kosher salt, or to taste
1 cup vegetable oil
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for a final flourish
4 garlic cloves, crushed and peeled
¼ teaspoon peperoncino flakes
4 cups (or a 35-ounce can) canned Italian plum tomatoes, preferably
San Marzano, crushed by hand
1 pound ziti
6 large fresh basil leaves
2 cups ricotta salata, freshly shredded on a hand grater

Equipment:
A heavy-bottomed skillet or sauté pan, 12 inches or wider, for frying
the eggplant and then cooking the sauce and pasta
A large pot, 8-quart capacity, with a cover, for cooking the pasta

-Trim the eggplants, and slice them (skin on) into 1±-inch chunks. Toss them with 1 teaspoon of salt, and drain in a colander for 30 minutes to an hour. Rinse, and pat them dry with paper towels.
-To fry the eggplant, pour the cup of vegetable oil in the skillet, and set over medium heat. Spread all the eggplant chunks in the hot oil, and leave them in place for a few minutes to start browning. Fry for about 10 minutes, tossing and stirring occasionally, until the eggplant is soft and cooked through and nicely browned on all sides. Lift the chunks out of the oil with a slotted spoon, and spread them on a platter lined with paper towels. Put the eggplant in a warm spot
(such as a briefly heated oven) while you make the sauce and pasta. Discard the frying oil, and wipe out the skillet.
-Pour 6 quarts of water, with 1 tablespoon salt, into the big pot, and bring to a boil.
-Pour the olive oil into the skillet, toss in the garlic cloves, and set over medium-high heat. Sprinkle the peperoncino in, and cook until the garlic is lightly colored, then pour in the crushed tomatoes. Slosh a cup of water in the tomato container to rinse it clean, and stir that in along with another ± teaspoon salt.
-Bring the tomatoes to a boil, then lower the heat and cook the sauce at a bubbling simmer for 12 minutes or so, until slightly thickened.
-Meanwhile, when the pasta water comes to a rolling boil, stir in the ziti. Cook until almost al dente, then lift them out with a spider, drain for a moment, and drop into the simmering tomato sauce. Toss together for a minute or two, until the ziti are cooked and coated
with sauce. Turn off the heat.
-Tear the basil leaves into shreds, and scatter over the pasta along with a cup of the shredded ricotta salata. Drizzle a couple of tablespoons of olive oil all over, and toss well. Now spread the eggplant chunks on top of the pasta, and sprinkle over it the remaining ricotta salata. Serve immediately, spooning both pasta and a portion of eggplant chunks into individual warm pasta bowls.

The Etna Revisited

For months now you've been hearing me go on and on about our upcoming wine and culinary tour of Sicily (which by the way we are leaving in less than 2 weeks!!) and especially my fascination with the exceptional wines and producers of the Mount Etna. The region is way off the radar of most wine drinkers, albeit Wine Spectator's latest edition did do a somewhat lame article, "Remaking Sicily" where they gave an approving nod to a few producers mainly influential importer, consultant and winemaker Marc de Grazia of Tenuta delle Terre Nere.

Growing vines in the shadow of Europe's only active volcano is not for the faint of heart. Towering above Catania, Sicily's second largest city, Mount Etna has one of the world's longest documented records of historical volcanism, dating back to 1500 BC with minor eruptions still taking place today. The major eruptions and lava flows over the last few centuries have created the huge variety of lava formations that make up Etna’s unique topography. Eruptions from volcanic vents on the east side of the mountain have melted a destructive trail through any communities that lay in their path towards their ultimate destination – the sea.

Etna has two distinct viticultural areas, the eastern and northern slope. The former has a mild, maritime, fairly humid climate, quite a bit of precipitation and is also the source for most of Etna’s distinctive, mineral, salt-scented white wines that are mostly based on the local Carricante grape as well as reds from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Capuccio. Sheltered from Mediterranean influences by the Nebrodi mountain range the vineyards on the northern slope see much less rain and the temperature differences between day and night can be extreme. Red wines reign supreme, with the Nerello Mascalese grape reaching qualitative heights. Here you also find much older, up to 130-year-old vines, partly ungrafted as phylloxera cannot survive on the very active volcanic ash sand.

The superstar variety of the region is Nerello Mascalese, with its bright red fruit, pleasantly earthy and floral notes, hints of tobacco and notable tannin, is often compared to the likes of Barolo and Burgundy. Nerello Mascalese ripens late, and grapes are grown up to a cool 4,000 feet on the slopes of Mount Etna so that they sometimes may not be picked until the end of October or even the beginning of November. The variety certainly holds its acid well and combined with a decent tannin structure, the wine is good to drink young and able to age too.

The Etna wines are excitingly different, very intriguing and unfortunately difficult to get in New Orleans....the only wholesaler in the city who is currently stocking an Etna Rosso is Matt Lirette (Lirette Selections). And not just any Rosso, but that of Salvo Foti, an impressive, leading local viticulturist who makes wine for many of the larger producers in the region as well as his own label, I Vigneri.

I've been a bit obsessed about these wines lately and have made a great contact with wine professional in Austin, A.J. Hernandez who is extremely knowledgeable about the region. He sent me a short list of "must see" producers and because of his help and advice we have appointments with 3 exciting producers in the area, Frank Cornelissen, Passopisciaro and Vini Biondi (Salvo Foti is the winemaker here). The Etna is awash with amazing small producers and other names to look for include Alberto Graci, Terre Nere, Benanti to name a few.

So if you are intrigued by all of this, join us of our Tuesday tasting of "Italy's Southern Stars" where we'll be tasting my "wine of the moment", Salvo Foti's I Vigneri Etna Rosso as well as other favorite selections from Sicily, Sardinia, Puglia and Campagnia.

Wine of the Moment, 2005 Bennett Lane Maximus

If you follow Napa Valley's Route 29 north to Calistoga, and then keep going just 2 1/2 more miles you'll arrive at the pinnacle of the Napa Valley. This is the northernmost wedge where the Vaca mountain range meets the Mayacamas range and where you'll also find Bennett Lane Winery, sitting snugly at the edge of its own beautiful Cabernet Sauvignon vineyard.

Owners Randy and Lisa Lynch purchased the property only five and a half years ago, but Bennett Lane is already making a name for itself with its lush textured Cabernet Sauvignon and the no-nonsense red wine varietal blend Maximus, composed of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah. The winery has garnered an incredible thirteen 90+ Point Scores from Wine Spectator in four short years and produces an amazing line up of both red and white wines.

The best deal in the Napa Valley, with Wine Spectator calling the 2005 release of the Maximus an "Outstanding Value" and with even more Cabernet in this blend than ever before, this deal has gotten even sweeter! The current blend is 64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot and 11% Syrah. The wine opens with aromas of dark cocoa, plum, ripe black cherry and subtle hints of vanilla. On the palate you get black cherry, plum, blueberry and subtle layers of cinnamon, nutmeg and cedar. With elegant, velvety tannins that enhance the mouthfeel, the wine has a long fruit driven finish and pairs well with practically everything, especially the Maximus Lamb Burger recipe this week!

Wine Spectator says 90pts: Firm, rich and intense, with ripe, vivid blackberry and wild berry fruit and a mix of currant and raspberry. Keeps a tight focus on the long, layered finish. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2013. 7,000 cases made. –JL

$35.99

Look for the Napa table on Tuesday night at our Swirl Uncorked event and get a taste of the Maximus as well as the other amazing wines by Bennett Lane and Nine North Wines!

Maximus Lamb Burgers with Feta Cheese and Mint

In anticipation of our upcoming Swirl Uncorked tasting this week at the Degas House, I chose a wine from Bennett Lane in Napa as my wine of the week. These guys are located in the very northern corner of the Napa Valley and their whole line up of wines is amazing! So what better to pair their Maximus "Red Feasting Wine" with than a juicy lamb burger on the grill. And look for the Napa table on Tuesday night where Ron will be pouring the Bennett Lane and Nine North Wines!

Serves 4
From Bennett Lane Winery

1 ¼ lbs. ground lamb
4 T. Bennett Lane Red Maximus
2 T. mint jelly
2 T. shallot, minced
1 t. dried oregano
2 t. salt
2 t. black pepper
¼ lb. Feta cheese, crumbled
Hamburger buns or Ciabatta bread cut into 4 inch pieces

Put the ground lamb in a large bowl. In another small bowl, mix together the wine, jelly, shallot, oregano, salt and pepper. Pour wine mixture in bowl with the lamb. Fold in the cheese and gently mix together. Form by hand into 4 patties.

Grill meat over hot coals for about 4-5 minutes per side for medium rare to medium. Serve on toasted burger buns of choice, and serve with plenty of BENNETT LANE MAXIMUS RED FEASTING WINE!

Swirl Uncorked, Tuesday September 22 at the Degas House

We are taking our Tuesday night tasting on the road this evening as our friends at Uncorked Wines will be presenting an exclusive Swirl tasting of their portfolio of wines at the historic Degas House on Esplanade (see info below). The event will feature over 40 wines from importers and producers including Kermit Lynch, Peter Weygandt, De Maison Selections, Bennett Lane, Nine North Wines, Bottled Poetry, Barnard Griffin and more. Chef Daniel Esses will join us as well with his infamous small plates. Don’t miss this amazing opportunity to taste wines from one of the best portfolios in the city!

Reservations and prepayment are required for this event, attendance is limited Please call 504.304.0635 to reserve your spot. $10, $15 at the door if space is available.

The historic Degas House is the only home or studio of Degas anywhere in the world that is open to the public, beautifully restored and located on majestic Esplanade Avenue just eleven blocks from the French Quarter at 2306 Esplanade Avenue. Free, lighted and secured parking is available at the Musicians' Union Bldg., 2401 Esplanade Avenue.

"Le Menu" Champagne Dinner with Clovis Taittinger

For over a year now we've been discussing an event with our friends Ti Martin and Dan Davis at Commander's Palace. Well I think this may be the dinner of all dinners as we've schedule October 8th as the date for our event featuring the wines of famed Champagne house, Taittinger hosted by non other than the man himself, Clovis Taittinger! Trust me, this is something you won't want to miss!!

So please join us for an intimate dinner with special guest Clovis Taittinger featuring premier selections of Champagne Taittinger at Commander’s Palace.

Thursday, October 8
Cocktails at 6:30pm
Dinner at 7:00pm
$95.00 per person, non-inclusive
For Reservations Contact Melissa Wallace at 504.207.9312

Le Menu
1998 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Brut
Lobster & Grilled Corn Beignets with Choupique Caviar and Lemon Vodka Spiked Crème Fraiche

Taittinger Brut “La Francaise”
Bone Marrow Crusted Grouper
Confit of Chanterelles and Autumn Mushrooms
With Dandelion Vinegar-Mushroom Jus

Taittinger Prestige Rose Brut
Pan Roasted Breast of Dry Aged Duck
Confit Duck Leg, Butternut Squash, Crispy Bacon and Root Vegetables
With a Cognac and Red Currant duck Fond

Taittinger Nocturne Sec
Neapolitan Moderne
Chicory Coffee, Ponchatoula Strawberry and White Chocolate Iced Creams with Bocage Honey Pecan Brittle and Praline Syrup

Champagne Dinner with Clovis Taittinger at Commander's Palace

For over a year now we've been discussing a wine dinner with our friends Ti Martin and Dan Davis at Commander's Palace. Well I think this may be the dinner of all dinners as we've schedule October 8th as the date for our event featuring the wines of famed Champagne house, Taittinger hosted by non other than the man himself, Clovis Taittinger! So put it in your calendar and I'll announce the full details next week after we get together to determine the wines and the menu. But trust me, this is something you won't want to miss!!

We had the honor of meeting and dining with the youngest of the Taittinger family at the Ritz Carlton earlier in the year. The most humble of French aristocrats, Clovis presented 6 of his exquisite bubblies in the true European style of a four hour lunch. He also paid a visit to the shop on Saturday where he again shared incredible wine, cheese and conversation for a few hours before trotting off to his tasting at Ric Hoppers. We have always loved the Taittinger wines, but are now fans for life! Thank you to Penny Kelly, Kobrand and Clovis for the great wines and fabulous company! Taittinger at Swirl: La Francais (750’s and 375s) Prelude and Rosé (one of our absolute favorite Rosé bubblies ever!)

Wine of the Moment, Finca Labajos Ibero

Although the area of "La Mancha" is more famously known for a certain Spanish knight, Don Quixote's stomping grounds are also home the world's largest wine-producing area, with a total of 191,699 hectares under vine. Once known only for producing large quantities of simple quaffing wine, the last ten years has seen a huge cut back in production matched with a giant leap in quality.

Located in the heart of the Iberian peninsula, halfway between Madrid and Andalusia, this immense plateau of arid lands experiences extreme temperatures, hot summers and very cold winters. The vineyards are set out on a large plain with loose and healthy soils of limestone-clay composition. Its climate is suitable for creating wines of high quality, Mediterranean with continental influences, it experiences marked seasons and considerable contrasts in temperature, which is a very favorable factor in the production of aromas.

A look at the label of the Finca Labajos Ibero states that it is a "Vinos de la Tierra" denomination, a concept that is similar to the "Vins de Pays" of France and, according to Spanish law, is seen as a sort of transitional term for areas that can, after 5 years, apply for Denominación de Origen status. However, many wineries in Vinos de la Tierra areas are embracing the greater freedoms allowed outside of the D.O. system and are producing some really innovative and exciting wines. The main requirement under the Vinos de la Tierra designation is that the wine has to be made from grapes grown with in the region, which leaves the door wide open for creative winemakers to compete on an international stage.

The Finca Labajos Ibero is made by a female winemaker, Raquel Labajos, the current owner of the property that has been in her family for over 300 years. A blend of 40% Merlot, 30% Syrah, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Tempranillo, the wine epitomizes what is happening in the region with its intense complexity, red fruit aromas, juicy ripeness combined with earthy spice notes.

Robert Parker gives it 90 points and says "...Purple-colored, the wine reveals aromas of cedar, earth, mineral, black currant, and blackberry. This leads to a medium-bodied, balanced, structured wine with 2-3 years of aging potential. It has excellent grip and depth followed by a firm, pure finish. It should drink well through 2015."

We paired this a few weeks ago with Chef Glen Hogh's Pinchos Morunos at our Tapas event and was a show stopper! The best part? It's a lot of wine for only $13.50!!